Mmml 



Fourth Edition 




ELMER D. SMITH & CO 
ADRIAN, MICHIGAN 

Price 60 Cents 



? 



Smith's 

Chrysanthemum 

Manual 

FOURTH EDITION 



Many of the Important L'liaiiter.s Have Been Revised and Enlal•^'ed, <4iving 

More Complete Details, with Additional lUnstn.tions. Tlie 

Work Is Prat-tieal, Not Only to Florists, Who Have 

Every Facility, lint to the Amatenr. 



FULLY I LLUSTllATED 



ELMER D. SMITH 

Who Has <Jiven His I'ndivided Attention for Twenty-live Years to the 

Improvement of the ("hrysanthemnm and Its Cnlture 

in Detail. 

1 9 1 



\ 






Copyri.zht 1919 

by 

ELMER D. SMITH 



y/ \2 ?9}9 

(C/u!. A 5 2 T) K ii 6 



*x%*^ \ 



INTRODUCTION 

During the past thirty years, I have devoted mucli time and energy 
to the cultivation and improvement of the Chrysantlienuim and have re- 
ceived many inquiries fron) those desirous of gaining knowledge on this 
subject. Confronted with these facts and realizing the urgent need for 
a complete, as well as practical treatise, at a price within the reach of 
all, I make this attempt in comi>liance with these demands. 

It is my desire to concisely set forth in these pages all details per- 
taining to Chrysanthemum culture, beginning with stock plants, treating 
the many branches, through each stage of development, ni" to and includ- 
ing the staging of plants and cut blooms. 

Most of the works upon this subject have l>een confined to methods 
practical only to florists, having every facility necessary to successful 
culture. 

The amateur, growing a few idants for pleasure and eager for better 
results, has Ijeen entirely overlooked. It is hoped this booklet will meet 
the requirements of all. 

There is no plant which responds more freely to careful attention 
than the Chrysanthenunu. The whole secret of success lies in prompt 
attention to details, and when these are thoroughly understood and exe- 
cuted, we may expect a generous reward. 

The celerity with which the first three editions sold has prompted my 
issuing this Fourth Edition. I trust that my efforts will be assistance to 
muny. 

ELMER D. SMITH, 

Member of the Chriisanthemum Society of America 

The National Chriisanthemum Society of England, and 

Societii Francaise des Chnisanthonisfes. 



Smith's Chrysanthemum 
Manual 



CHAPTER I. 



The deriviation of the word Chrysantheinniii is from the Greek words 
Chrysos, sold — and Aiitheiuoin, a flower. It is not easy to say how long 
the Chrysantiiennnn has been known to mankind, but midoubtedly over 
2,000 years have ehi])sed since it was first known in tlie Celestial Eminre. 

In Japan its enltivation <-an be traced back over TOO years. Breynius, 
iu 1089, was the first Enroi)ean to mention the Chrysanthemum under the 
name of Matricaria .Jajionica Maxima. M. Pierre Louis Blancard intro- 
duced the lirst larse tlowering varieties into England in 17S0, and the 
following year they were Howered and named. ]\Ir. John Salter was one 
of the earliest English hybridizers, and produced many wonderful varieties 
from 1S3.S to 1S4S. 

As near as can lie ascertained, they were introduced into Aiiierit-a 
about the year 1S47: Dr. II. P. Walcott is credited as being the first per- 
son in this country to raise new varieties from seed, which he did as early 
as 1879. The work of hyliridization was taken n]i by Wm. K. Harris and 
JOiin Thorpe early in the SO's. 

Their efforts were crowned with great snc<ess, liotli originating many 
i:ew and staitling varieties. These results were incentive to others until 
the zenith was reached in 1894, when 103 new varieties were offered for 
sale, many of which wer(> infei-ior to those then in commerce. This condi- 
tion caused many to be skeptical, doubting the merits of tlie so-called 
novelties, until fully tested. 

In the meantime, John Thorpe had conceived the idea of organizing 
a .society to protect the interests and also promote the developiuent of this 
tlower which was fast gaining popularity. In 1890, at Buffalo, the organi- 
zation now known as the Chrysantheunun Society of America was es- 
tablished. In 1894 this Society apjiointed connnittees composed of ex- 
jierts to meet during the following season at Chicago, Cincinnati, Phila- 
delfthia. New Yoi'k and Boston, to inspect seedlings and sjxjrts. These 



2 SMITH'S CHRVSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 

couiuiittee.s have been continued fi-oni year to year, awarding lirst-i-lass 
certiflc-ates to tlie deserving ones. 

Such action hrouglit the varieties certificated into prominence, and 
tliose wliich failed to meet tlieir commendation were so little sought after 
as to he uniirofltahle, and many discontinued hybridizing. 

The first e.xhibition given by the C. S. A. was in Xdvember, i;)(V2, 
under the auspices of the Ilortiiultural Society of Chicago. 8ince then 
they have been held annually in the lai'ge cities both East and \Ve>;t. 



CHAPTER II. 



STOCK PLANTS. 



At the close of the flowering season the old plants must be saved for 
-stock, from which to i)ropagate young plants for another j-ear's use. Each 
grower should decide how many will he required and provide the most 
suitable situation for their maintenance. 

The amateur will need only two or three of a kind, while the com- 
mercial florist may need several thousand of the most i)opular sorts to 
meet his demand. Some varieties ai'e more susceptible of being increased 
than others, making cuttings abundantly and rooting fi-eely. 

Those who propagate for their own use only, should keep the plants 
in a low temperature, just above freezing, and even a few degrees ot frost 
will not materially injure them. They thrive best when kept on the dry 
side during the dark days of winter, at which time they are rather In- 
active. The florist who requires quantities for early distribution will be 
obliged to give higher temperature, about .jO degrees; and their needs 
for water should be carefully considered, a\oiding, if possible, too abund- 
ant and frequent use, as such a course tends lo weaken tiie plants, thus 
giving sickly cuttings. 

Another plan adopted by many private gardeners and tho.se requiring 
only a limited number of plants, is to root sufficient cuttings in November 
and dispense with the old stock plants. 

Early Propaffation — Stock plants for early propagation are gener- 
ally planted on greenhouse benclies, producing successive crops of cut- 
tings. With the new and scarce sorts it is sometimes advisable to take 
cuttings even as early as September or October, and. as soon as rooted, 
these are planted in shallow boxes or upon the bench. When large enough, 
the tops are taken off as cuttings. This induces the plants to make new 
breaks, which are used for cuttings when of suitable size. 

Cold Frames — The cold frame system is the most practical for those 
who do not have greenhouses, and the wholesale florist who needs large 
quantities of plants for June and July delivery will find them equally 
serviceable. 

In the construction of cold frames, there is no objection to excavating 
one or two feet, provided ample drainage can be secured; otherwise it is 
best to make board frames and plant stock on the level or slightly ele- 
vated so that no surplus moisture will remain about the roots. Stock thus 
stored should be protected by covering the frames with boards. To pre- 
vent continual freezing and thawing, these frames must be covered with 
coarse manure or litter. Most varieties are not injured by freezing, pro- 
vided they are kept in this condition until spring. 

Field Groini — Field grown stock is in every way more satisfactory 



4 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

tliiiu that wliifli lias iirodm-ed blooms under glass. Tliey appear to pos- 
sess more vigor and give successive crops with greater rapidity. These 
i«:ay he handled in cold frames, as previously mentioned, or removed to 
greenhouse when early jn-opagation is necessary. 

Iiiijxirtcd Stock — Those imiiorting foreign varieties often find them 
in very ]ioor condition when vnii»acked. This is not to lie wondered af 
when we consi<ler they are fi'oni two to six weeks in transit. They are 
generally packeil in di-y cocanut fiber, and when taken from the box look 
like dry sticks. It is oidy by the utmost vigilance and care that sucii 
jiiants are nni'scd into activity. Inunerse them into tei)id water for a few 
hours to I'lumii the wood and roots. 

After removing all lifeless growth, jiot them in light soil, using a>< 
small a pot as will acconnnodate the roots. It should be the aim to induce 
mot gi'owth as soon as possible and, to do this, plunge tliem into a close 
<ase which is provided with gentle bottom heat — about 70 degrees will 
sultice. Sec that tln^ material in which they are jilunged is kei>t on tlie 
dry side, and use water rather sjiaringly until they begin to gi'ow freely. 
They should be looked to sevei'al times each <lay, and if the plants or soil 
shows signs of fungus, ventilation nmst be given f<ii' such conditions, if 
not promjifly checked, are fatal. It is often wise to remove the cuttings* 
V. lien quite small and root them, especially if the old jilants aiv weak or 
show signs of decay. 

I'.y taking this course it is jiossible to establish a sm.-ill jilant upon its 
own root, winch would otherwise I>e lost if .allowed to remain until the old 
plant h.ad gained vigor. 

\()r(lli(s ini'l Scarrr Soii.s — Novelties and scarce soits .are often 
bought in limited ([uantity to iirojiagate from. The best results are obtain- 
ed by iil;inting these yoinig jilants into Hats (shallow boxes I, or upon the 
bench in slmllow soil. .Vs soon as they show signs of gi'owth, the tojis ;ire 
1.d<en as cuttings and the plants are treateil thereafter same as stock 
plants. 

It is imprudent to over-propagate, Jw t.aking every cutting as soon 
as lai-ge enough to root: better let the cutting get strong, so that a few 
leaves are left on the jilants. This will irreatly assist in aiaintaining 
strong, healthy stock plants. 



CHAPTER 111. 



PROPAGATION 



Assuming the oUl plants (stock plants) have been cared for and are 
in proper condition, the next step is the propagation of young plants. This 
is best done with soft wood cuttings or divisions; the former, however, 
are generally used. 

Cuttin'i Bench — The cutting bench is simply a table or bench con- 
structed to hold three or four inches of material into which the cuttings 
may be inserted. Clean washed sand is considered the best material, but 
wlien unavailable, coke, Iirick or stone, finely crushed and screened, will 
give very satisfactory results. After the bench is filletl with sand, it 
should lie jiounded as firm as possible and given a thorough watering 
when it is ready for use. In preparing these lienches, see that all material 
is clean and free from decaying n)atter, and to this end a coat of whife- 
wash will be beneficial. 




FIG. 1. CUTTING BENCH TAMP. 

Schctioii of ('Htli)i'js — In the selectidii of -uttiiiL's, it is generally 
conceded the strong and vigorous ar<j the best. Slock pi'o[ieiiy hamlled 
will give good cuttings, and we would rake weak ones only when absolutely 
necessary. 

3J(ihiii(/ ('i(ff(ii(is — These are cut fi-om an inch 1o three inches long, 
ren)oving the lower and shortening the tips of the larger leaves. See Fig. "J. 

With a knife make a cut in the sand 74 in. deej), or more, according 
to length of cuttings, inserting close together and firm the sand well about 
them, (iive the whole a liberal watei'ing and keep const. intly wet until 
rooted, which will i-equire six to twenty days. 

To insure the largest percentage, the cuttings sliould l)e moderately 
soft .at the time they are removed from the jilant. Single eye cuttings of 
new and scarce sorts may be used when necessary. These are fastened 
to toothpicks with fine stemming wire, allowing half of the tootlipick to 



■6 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MAXUAI^ 

exteiiil below tlie end of the c-nttinj;, which sliould flnuly rest ou the sand 
when inserted in the bed. See C, Fij;. -. It reiinires more tiaie to produce 




i'k;. 2. {•rT'n\(;s — a, ut.\o : ii, .short; c, single eye. 

good plants liy this system tlien where fair-sized cuttings are taken, bur 
is often of service wlieu stoclv is limited. 

Air anil Teiupd-nturc — The propagating liouse should be well aired, 
and as far as i)ossil>le the atmospheric temperature should not exceed 5r> 
degrees, with a bottom heat of 10 degrees higher. 

The Chrysanthemum is so susceptible of being rooted that no fast rule 
can be given. They may be struck in a temperature as low as 40 and as 
high as SO degrees, but if the former is adopted they root very slowly, 
niany varieties become hardened and thus the object is defeated. On tlie 
ether hand, if too high temperature is used, cutting bench fungus is liable 
to set in and ruin the crop. 

SluKliiuj — As the season advances and tlie outdoor temperature rises, 
it is impossible to maintain 55 degrees, and the soft cuttings are very 
mucli inclined to flag or wilt. For this purpose we use a light wrai)ping 
paper, in rolls 80 inches wide, which is given a coat of linseed oil and 
tlien tacked to the sash bars of the house. This shading being senu-trans- 
pareut, gives satisfactory results tln'oughout the propagating .season. 

In case of an excessive bright and hot spell, whitewash or any other 
good shading material should be applied to the out.side of the glass. Let 
the condition of cuttings be index for shading, but use every precaution 
necessary to prevent wilting, exclude light by covering and dampen the 
walks to lower the temperature. 

Watrritip — It is very important that cuttings should never get dry, 
tor under such conditions the end inserted in the sand becomes brown and 
hardened and will not take up water in sufficient quantity to revive the 
foliage, and thus becomes worthless. Many of the wholesale florists pro- 
pagate Chrysanthemums the year round, although tlie bulk are struck from 
iMarch to Jul v. 



TROPAGATION T 

Another metliod lavijely employed in California and other snb-troi)i- 
cal states, is to use cotton cloth as a covering for the propagating house 
or frame. This excludes part of the light and prevents the wind from 
drying them out. The cutting beds are iisually made upon the ground,, 
using sand as a material to hold moisture and sustain them until they 
make roots. Large quantities of cuttings are successfully handled in tlils 
way along the Pacitic Coast. 

Saucer Syston — Those who wish to propagate a few plants and are 
not favored with the facilities of the greenhouse, may use shallow boxes 
or any dish that will hold a few inches of sand. A dozen or more cuttings 
liiay be inserted at a time by adopting the "Saucer System"' given by 
Peter Henderson in his work, "Practical Floral Culture," which is as fol- 
lows : "It is called the Saucer System because saucers or plates are used 
to hold the sand in which the cuttings are placed. The sand is put in to 
a depth of an inch or so and the cuttings are inserted in it close en.ough 
1o touch each other. The sand is then watered until it becomes the condi- 
tion of mud. and placed on the windodw sill fully exposed 1o the sun. I'.nt 
one condition is essential to success, until the cuttings Itecome rooted tlio 
sand must be continually saturated and kept in the condition of nuid : if 
once allowed to dry up the whole operation \^'ill be defeated." 

Eiiglish Method — The English method may also be of service to the 
amateur and is as follows: Insert three or four cuttings around the 
edge of a four-inch pot that has been previously filled with light soil, ((in- 
sisting of loam, sand and leaf mould, equal parts. These are pbu ed into 
a close frame and given same attention as suggested for Imported Stock, 

Divisions — In localities where tlie plants remain out-of-doors over 
winter without injury, they can be increased by removing the sprouts or 
stools that have sprung up from the base of the old plant. As these stools 
come into active growth, roots are formed near the surface of the soil, 
and may then be removed and rt'iilanted or jiotted as desireil. Often such 
pieces are ditlicult to pot owing to the long, crool^ed stems. These are 
removed, leaving a few roots to establish the young plant. New varieties- 
are generally produced by seeds, which are fully treated in Chapter XII. 

Pottinri — Cuttings should not remain in tiie bench alter tlie roots are 
half an inch hing, as they are potted easier, making better plants in every 
way than when allowed to remain until the roots are further develope.l. 

The soil should not be di-y, lint moist eiKuigli to remain intact \\iier. 
squeezed in the hand, and, on the other hand, not l»e muddy. Cuttings 
are usually potted in small pots, the two-inch size being an.iple. Put suf- 
ficient soil in the bottom of the pot so that the base of the cutting will be 
about 74 of an inch lielow the surface, hold cutting in center of pot with 
one hand and fill in with the other. Firm the soil, with thumb ov fingers, 
enough to keep the cutting upright, and be sure to lea\e sutiicient space for 
water, which should be applied liberally without delay. 

Putting the cuttings in flats (shallow boxes), instead of potting, has 
long been in vogue, and is a good course to pursue, insuring good stock 
at planting time with less labor involved. See Fig. S. 



cii.\I'Ti:r /r. 



SPECIMKX PI.AXTi- 



Cuttinss lu.'iy be taken any time from JuHuary l-'tli to iMai'fli ir)lli, l)iit 
tliose struck in February i,nve best results. As soon as rooted they are 
potted In 2-iii. pots, nsin.ir light soil, and nhiced in a cool, airy house and 
as near the glass as possible. It' given proper attention, such [ilants will 




STOCK ta.'owx nv kla!' system. 



niaUe large si>eciuiens from three to six feet high, and nearly as wide, 
by flowering time. In the course of a week or ten days flie roots will 
push to tht- side of the pot and will need slutting into the next larger 
size. 

Soil — There are many ideas as to what soil is best suited for Chrys- 
imtheunnns. Kadi exiK-iM lias a way of his own in jirepariug tlie soil, 
but as e(pially good results have been obtained inider varied conditions, 
it is safe t<> conclude tliat the comjiost eni|>loyed has little to do with re- 
sults, provided it contains sufficient food to noiulsh the i>lant and the cul- 
tivator is ;i ch>se o]iser\er, considering the louditinns under which they 
are grown. 

AH <-oncede tliat fresh cut sod piled late the preceding fall with one- 
fourth of its bulk of decomposed manure, makes an excellent compost. 

I'cpotfinn — Turn out the plants, take tiiein with the left hand and 
place in the new pot (winch is uencnilly an inch lai'ger than the one from 
which they were removed) so that tlie ball is a half an inch below the rim 



*Thi.s chapter is !art;ely wiitinu.s which have appeared in the Ameri- 
can Fldii.st and are from T. D. Hatfield, Wellesley. Ma.-!S., who has been 
■eminently siK-fe.ssful in thi.s important branch of chrysanthemum culture. 



SPECIMEN PLANTS 9 

of the pot and the phmt staiuls in the center. While held in this position 
fill in sufficient soil and firm s^ently with a stick around the pot, initil it 
is filled level with the oriijinal ball of earth. If the soil is retentive and 
rather wet, the ramming process can he carried to extremes, but if of a 
light nature, it should be made rather firm, and \\ hen tlie final potting is 
done, it can scarcely be carried to excess. 

StoppiiKj — The term "stopping"" means pinching out the center of a 
slioot, and the object is to force the plant to make several growths instead 
of the present one. 

When the plants are establislied in fonr-incli pots, liiey nre generally 
from four to six inches high, and at this stage tlie iiinching and stopping 
begins. This should be done a few days Itefore repotring or deferred until 
after the plants have made roots info the new soil. This induces tlie 
plant to make several side shoots, and as soon as tliese have attained 
four or five inches in length they are again stopped. This work is rei)eated 
throughout the season up to August 10th. Some of the varieties may 
bo .stopped a trifle later, but each cultivator nmst know the flowering time 
of those under his care. The early varieties set bud earlier, and it may he 
Avise to discontinue stopping sosne of these as early as August 1st. I>y 
April 1st to l."5th the plants should be in full vigor and ready to shift into 
six-inch pols; with this potting use a richer soil by adding to the ordinary 
compost a dusting of wood ashes, and a little pulverized sheeji manure. 
The latter shoiild be used in very small in-oportions. 

l>r(iin(i(/r — Free drainage is essential and we would reconnncnd char- 
coal to be used for such varieties as are liable to burn. Coal ashes are 
also a good material fm* this purpose and ma.A' l»e used as advantageously 
as broken crocks. Pot firmly when the soil is light, and loosely when 
the soil is heavy. At this stage the ])lants are carefully observed, tlieir 
manner of growth noted, also tendency to I)reak, and liability to disease. 
The good as well as the had points are almost certain to appear during 
April, and only such as promise well are shifted up to the largest sizes. 
Some of the varieties haA'e the habit of setting i)remature bud;; at this 
stage of growth. Such conditions are unfavorable to Ihe production of 
fine specimens, although the greater majority will outgrow this defect 
after the bloonnng ]>eriod has ])assed. 

From 1st to 1."tb of May another shift will i»e necessary and this time 
into seven or eight-inch pots, according to the varieties. The weaker 
growing should be put into the smaller size, and the stronger ones into 
the largest. As the plants at this season I)egin to assume soine size, and 
owing to the higher temperature which prevails, the watering will need 
constant attention. In repotting at this time, the plants should be set low 
enough in the pot to allow ample space for water, not less thai; an inch, 
but better an inch and a half, to hold sufficient water to saturate all parts 
of the soil. 

Final Pottiu;/ — The final potting occurs from June 1st to b'lth: for 
this give a richer compost, using a rather rough open soil containing a 
large portion of broken, half-decomposed sods. This must be packed 



10 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

more linuly in the ]iots. A t-lose, heavy loam is had, hut if it must he- 
used, it should he only lightly firmed; sufficient sharp sand may he used 
to keep the water passing out freely. 

Wotcriii!/ — All experts agree that the plants should never suffer for 
want of water, and c-onsider it one of the most important details in all 
stages of development. On the other hand, it is very important that the- 
drainage be ample, so th.at the water passes through freely, thus ])re- 
venting stagnation, a condition conducive to disease, which will finally re- 
sult in failure. 

It sometimes occurs that the exact condition of plants in pots is not 
fully indicated hy the appearance of the soil. A very accurate course to 
follow is to rap tlie jiots with the knuckles or a stick; those that are wet 
liave a dull sound, those that are dry a hollow sound. A few days' trial 
Viill teach the o|)erator to detect the difference iu sound in an instant. 

SfaJiing — During August many of the plants will have attained con- 
sidcral>]e height, even though they have heen stopped every few days. 
'J'hose which are inclined to snake too dense growth should he provided 
with a few stakes and the branches gradually tied out to the desired form, 
rh'.is making a foundation to Iiuild ujion later. These stakes will need to 
be I'emoved later on, and rejilaced liy larger ones, when it is determined 
how tall the plants are likely to grow. 

Early in September it will be necessary to consider the final staking 
and tying out. The main object in specimen plants is to develop as many 
growing shoots as possible before the middle of August, arranging them 
so as to keep the jilants even and regular in f(n-m. How this is to be 
done is somewhat a matter of taste, but it is easier to do it all at once, 
as more shapely plants can be formeil. If the plants are desired for ex- 
liiliition purjioses ami to iie transported some distance to the exhiViition 
iiall, the stake system is preferable to that of the wire frame, the advant- 
age lieing that iilants tied to stakes can be drawn together so there will be 
no friction, and at the same time occupy much less space. 

The liest course to follow in the matter of staking and tying largely 
tiepends upon tlie size and form to which tliey are to be trained. The 
Japanese growei-s shape their plants into many artistic designs, such as 
crosses, fans, boats, parasols, etc. When such forms are to be perfected, 
it is necessary to niiikc a temiiorary frame-work of wire or stakes to which 
the shoots may be tie<l out into the form desired, and this should he pro- 
vided befoi'e the plants attain any great size. The forms generally adopted 
for exhiliifion groups are round and slightly elevated in the center, as 
shown in I'ig. 4. page TJ, and are grown all sizes fi-om tlu-ee to six feet 
in height and nearly as wide. 

The ojieration of staking is simply iilacing stakes into the soil, the 
outer ones at such an angle as to bi'ing the l)r:inches in the desired posi- 
tion to give the plant the ri'(|uired diameter. Additional stakes are sup- 
plemented to hold the inner branches in )>osition. 

The best material for trying is silkaline. which does not slip; being 
soft, does not in.iure the shoots, and as its color is green, is nor so con- 
spicuous as where white string is used. 



SPECIMEN PLANTS 11 

Tying out should not be left too long : in fact, it should he done 
every few daj's. There are always some overgrown, vigorous shot)ts which 
are difficult to accommodate, but while supple they will bend easily. A 
bad hole or open space can sometimes be filled by these strong growths, 
bending them down and tying securely. When specimen plants are grown 
for conservatory decoration, or where they can be practically transported 
to the exhibition hall, the wire frames may be used. 

When wire fi-anies are used, tie as many shoots as possible to the 
lower part of the frame, as the greatest danger is congestion at Hie top. 

DishiuJding — The oiieration of disbudding will need attention early 
in Septoml)er. the early varieties setting buds first and tlie later ones fol- 
lowing, according to the natural flowering time. For early exhudtions. 
say the 1st of November, buds should be prominent l)y September 1.", and 
showing color four weeks later. At least three weeks are re<iuired after 
they show color until maturity. 

Generally all the specimen plants produce tei-minal buds : eacli shoot 
bearing a cluster at the extremity, which is dislmdded so as to leave 
only one l»ud to each, and this the center one. In this way the flowers are 
uniform in size, and if the plant has i)een well trained and tied out. these 
individual lilooms will nearly touch ea<'h other. 

After setting liuds, the ]ilants will begin sending out suckers from the 
roots in all directions, which, if .-lUowed to remain, rob the buds of the 
nourishment which has been providid for their development. These 
should be removetl at once and this operation repeated as often as they 
appear, as well as an.v lateral growths wliich ma.v start from the shoots. 

FrciUnn — The apiilication of stimulants requires careful consideration 
and siiould be entrusted oid.v to persons of judgment and discretion. With 
the roots so nmch confined in the ])ots, even more care is required than 
where the bench s.vstem is employed in the in'odnction of cut blooms. 

The pots must Ite filled witli roots and the drainage pertVctl.v free 
to begin with. If cow manure is used as a to]) dressing, would be best 
to drv it first and afterwards brealc into small pieces. This a<'ts as a 
nmlch and fertilizer at the same time. As a safe and lasting stinmlanf, 
pulverized sheep maiuire is jireferred. which should I)e ai^iilied in the form 
of a toi) dressing, adding a little sandy loam to keep it ojten. Liquid 
manure ma.v also be used if the jilant continues health.v. ai>plying once a 
week at first and twice or three times a week later. Sulphate of am- 
monium and nitrate of soda are sometimes used with wonderful results, 
but must be applied with discretion. 

From the time the bnds are set. success dejiends verv nmch nixm the 
.judicious nse of fertilizei-s. either in liqiiid form or a to]i dressing. Some 
plants Mill take ]i<|uid manvu'e in liberal amounts: others, if so treated, 
are easily in.iured. Over-feeding sliows itself in yellou. stunted foliage. 
Wlien this occurs, use clear water and let them get as dry as tiie.v can 
with safety. 

The grower needs to be acquaintetl with the i>laiits as wirli individuals: 
it is a matter of experience and, when carefully dont', may be continued 



12 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL, 




V. 


c 


> 


rA) 


1 


W 






'_J 


w 


" 


f^ 


* 


M 


•^, 


O 


^ 


a 



Sl'EClMEX I'l.AXTS 13 

until the buds sbow color. It is, however, worthy to note that piuU and 
red varieties, including bronze, show lack of color and also burn easily 
if feeding is continued too long. Clay's fertilizer is a good manure and 
perfectly safe to use either as a liquid or top dressing mixed with a little 
loam. Soot water at times and weak lime water will sweeten the soil. 
The drainage must, however, be kept free, and this is sometimes difli- 
cult at the end of the season, when the pots are filled with roots. Punch- 
ing holes through the ball to the drainage will generally relieve water- 
logged plants. 



CHAPTER V 



MIS< ELI.A^EOL'S PLANTS 



StaniJards — 'I'lip ciiltiiral (liie<-tions given for specimen plants will be 
suitable for tliis imrjiose. 1'lie greatest difference being the training al- 
lowing them to grow without stO]iping until they have attained the desired 
height. Standai'ds are generally about five feet to the lower branches, 

although there is no fixed 
rule on this subject, and 
they may be grown any 
height, from three feet, 
(which are termed hair- 
standards,) to the height 
mentioned above. It is 
necessary the cuttings be 
liropagated early. When 
needed, provide with one 
strong stake for each idant, 
to which it is tied to keep 
the stem straight. As soon 
as they reach the desired 
height pinch out the center. 
The sevei'al Itreaks which 
follow form the foundation 
for top or Ijcad of the 
standard. These are nip- 
ped every few days the 
same as' specimen jilants. 
The training will require 
some care and attention as well as disbudding, feeding and other details. 
For Mtirlrt — Dwarf lUants of symmetrical form, with foliage down 
to the pots, are the most salalile, and when thus grown require constjint 
attention as to watering and stopping, allowing each jdant plenty of nrom 
to keep the lower leaves in a healthy condition. Cuttings taken June 1st 
and grown on, either in pots, iilanted on old carnation benches, or in 
sjtent hot -beds (light soil preferable) and lifted by August l.lth will make 
very nice plants 1% to 2 feet high. The reason for lifting early is to have 
them well established in their flowering pots liefore the buds are formed. 
Another system is sometimes employed which gives very dwarf s.vm- 
metrical plants and often utilizes considerable stock that would otherwise 
be worthless. Cuttings that were struck late in June and potted in two- 
inch jiots may l)e put several together in one pot about August 1st, jiro- 
\ided they are in thrifty condition. Three plants to a five-inch pot and 




.M.\i:.KKT I'l.ANT 



MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS 15 

five or six to a seven-incli and so on. By sorting and placing tlie taller 
in the center and shorter at the edge, very symmetrical plants may be 
had. Disbudding and feeding will need attention to assure best results. 

Single Stemmed — The same culture as given for market plants will 
suffice for this class, except they are generally grown in pots and restrict- 
ed to one stem and flower. Those from one to two feet in height are more 
effective and useful than taller ones ; for this reason many prefer plung- 
ing out-of-doors where they will have full benefit of the sun and air, 
i.iaking them more dwarf than when grown under glass. 

Cuttings rooted early in June are best for tliis purpose. They must 
be repotted, staked and tied as their needs demand. In July the final 
potting takes place and the soil should be made very firm to secure short- 
jointed growtli. 

Miniature — There has not been much attention given to this class in 
tjiis country, although cultural directions are given in many of the old 
Dnglisli works. 

The best time to take cuttings is from the first to the last of August, 
according to the earliness of the variety. They are taken at the period 
when the buds are -just beginning to form and if delayed until very far 
advanced, the wood becomes hardened and will not root freely. These 
<.'uttings should be potted iunnediately into light soil and placed in a close 
frame which has been made the same as a hotbed with fresh manure to 
give forth a gentle bottom heat. 

In selecting cuttings take strong shoots from plants in the open 
boi"der or those grown under glass, and if the selection is made from 
those which naturally do not grow high, so much the better. A 3 to '■aV^ 
inch pot is large enough for this purpose. After the cuttings have been 
I>lunged therein they must be covered with a sash and shaded to keep out 
the strong liglit. It is also advisable to spray them over two or three 
times a day which will maintain the most genial condition for root for- 
mation. 

As soon as rooted (which may be ascertained by turning them out) 
air should be given the frame, a little at first and increasing eveiy few 
■days, to gradually harden the plants to a natural condition. In this man- 
ner plants can be bad S inches high with blooms 5 inches in diameter. 

For Cut FZotocr.s— The pot system is employed by all English growers 
and doubtless most of those on the Continent. Culture, same as for Mar- 
ket or Single Stem as far as training is concerned, shifting from time to 
time as directed for specimen plants. Propagation may take place 
from February to May, according to the variety and requirements of the 
cultivator. Throughout England these plants are potted and plunged in 
the open border as .soon as danger of frost is over, and could be so treated 
in this country if it were not for the I'avishes of the Tarnished Plant Bug, 
which is so numerous. 

If exliibition blooms ai^e desired they may be grown to single stem, 
•or stopped early in June, saving three breaks which are grown on, each 
to produce a flower later. 



16 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

(iraftiHfi — There are two objects in grafting clirysaiitlieinuius, first, 
to increase the vitality of wealv growing varieties by grafting upon strong 
Icinds. Second, to display a number of varieties on one plant at the same 
time. To the experienced gardener this art is of little or no interest, but 
to the novice there is something wonderful in the sight of a plant having 
a dozen or more distinct varieties flowering simultaneously. Such plants 
attract a great deal of attention at the exhibitions. 

Where it is tlie desire to increase the vitality, cuttings are struck in 
the autumn or winter months, and grown on in a cold greenhouse \mti! 
early spring. These are used as stock upon which to graft, and should 
be done in March or April. Select scions from the weak growing kinds 
and cut the end in the form of a wedge. After cutting out the top of the 
stock an inch or so above the ground, make a slit an inch in depth in the 
stump and insert the wedge shaped scion, tying securely in place with 
latlia or light cotton yarn. 

It is necessary that the wood of lioth stock and scion be in a half- 
ripened condition, reasonably firm, and if pos.sible have both the .same 
size. In case it is impossible to find scions of the same diameter as the 
stock, the scion should be set to one side of the incision so that the bark 
of both will be even on one side. A moist, warm corner of the greenhouse 
or any place where a close atmosphere can be maintained for a few^ days 
will be necessary to insure their uniting. If the weather is warm and the 
sun very bright it is sometimes advisable to shade the planrs to prevent 
scion from wilting, and occasionally sphagnum moss is wrapped around 
the union and the foliage moistened to prevent to rapid evaporation. As 
soon as the scions become established, which is generally in the course 
of eight or ten days, the tying material can be removed and the plants 
given more air, i-eceiving the same care and attention as other plants. 

For grafted specimens it is important that all the varieties sliouhl 
flower at the same time, and to secure maximum effect some thought 
should be given to arrangement of the colors. The most showy specimens 
are produced by grafting upon strong growing standards, using one variety 
to each shoot. All lateral growths or breaks startuig out of the stock 
should be removed as fast as they appear. 

In Open Border — Most of the previous forms of plants may be grown 
in the open border with fairly good success. The essential points are 
that tliey be planted on light soil which permits of their being taken up 
without breaking away too many roots. If large specimen plants are to 
be treated this way, ample space must lie given so they do not become 
crowded, and afford the operator room to attend to stopping, etc. 

The lifting and juitting should be done not later than August l."»th, 
f.o that the plants will become well established in their new quarters be- 
fore buds are formed. After potting it is necessary they have a copious 
watering and be set in a sheltered place out of the sun and strong drafts 
as much as possible. An old shed that will afford some light is a very 
suitable place. 

Fi-om this time on little water will be required at the root until they 



MISCELLANEOUS PLANTS 17 

have become tborouglilj- established. It will lie advisable, however, to 
dew over the foliage several times each day to prevent flagging. As soon 
f.s established, give light, gradually increased each day imtil they can 
stand full sun. 

Hardy Chrysanthemums — Most Chrysanthemums are hardy out-of- 
doors in the northern states with slight protection as far as their roots 
are concerned, but fail to be satisfactory owing to early frosts which ruin 
the buds when in a half-developed condition. The most serviceable varie- 
ties are the early flowering Pompons, which perfect their flowers before 
frost. Many of the later ones can be used to advantage in the southern 
states, or in localities where severe frosts are not expected until the mid- 
dle of November. 



('MAPTER VI. 



PACKING PLANTS 



For E.fi>rcss — For sliipnieiits not requiring more tlian five or six days 
to reiicli destiiiMtion, iiaek in wooden boxes that liave been previously lined 
with i)aper or other material to keep out the frost. The plants should be 
thoroughly watered, turned out of the pots and wrapped tight in some 
sort of pliable paper to keep the eartli intact. With a light coat of ex- 
celsior on the bottom of the box, the plants are then placed in rows close 

together on their sides, with ball 
of earth next to end of the box. 
This is followed by another row 
in which the ball is placed next 
to that in the first row, the 
operation being repeated until 
bottom of the bo.x is covered. 
In putting in the next tier, re- 
verse them, beginning at the 
other end and so continue luitil 
finished. The main object is to 
pack securely, in-eventing them 
from shifting, even tliough 
roughly handled. .Vny intei"- 
vening spaces lietween the 
l)lants and side or top of the 
ln>x should be filled with ex- 
celsior, sawdust, or some other 
material, so that if the pack- 
age is turned upside down they 
cannot move about. (See Fig. G.) 
Inexperienced iia<'kei-s invariably fail in this respect and often when 
the plants reach destination they have so shifted in the box as to be en- 
tirely destitute of soil, as well as badly broken. See to it that they can- 
not move. 

Each variety nnist be lalteled and some means provided so that the 
reciiiient can unpack without danger of getting them mixed. A system 
many have adopted is to wrap one, two, three or four plants of a kind into 
a bundle, each bundle being i»rovided with a label, and are thus packed. 
Where five or more of a kind are ordered they are separated by a sheet 
of paper. 

In very severe weather it is sometimes necessary to wrap the boxes 
with several thicknesses of paper as a safeguard against frost. In very 
warm weather the foregoing method is impractical, as they are likely to 
heat and thus be ruined. From May to October the plants are generally 




Id, C. BOX or PLANTS 



PHOI'KKLV PACKED. 



PACKING PLANTS 19 

M rapped and set upright in shallow boxes which ha\e been provided with 
a post in each corner to which cleats are nailed. Then slats are placed an 
inch apart to form the cover, thus assuring a free circulation of air. 

For Mail — In packing plants for mail shipments the soil is washed 
f]'()m the roots, these are then wrapped in damp moss and wax paper in 
small bundles, containing not to exceed 25 in each bundle. These are gen- 
erally labeled with a tough paper label and packed in parafine lined boxes 
or those made of corrugated board. All unoccupied space must be filled 
fii-mly with excelsior or similar material. 

Foi- Export — In packing for export there are two systems employed, 
one for the winter months, when they are packed tight, and the other 
tor summer, which should provide light and air to the plants. When 
packed close, excessive moisture is to be strongly guarded against. Under 
irMih conditions the plants are sure to rot if they are to remain packed 
lucre than six days. There is sufficient moisture in the plant it.self to 
retain vitality for some time, and whatever is used to fill up the Inter- 
vening spaces should be perfectly dry. Moss, excelsior or cocoanut fll)er 
are the best materials for filling. 

Plants that are to be exported should l)e pnt into a cold, airy liouse 
for a week or ten days and watered very sparingly so as to harden the 
v.'ood, as they usually porish in transit if the growth is soft. Before plac- 
ing in the boxes remove most of the foliage as it is very apt to die and 
■cause decay. The balls of earth should be wrapped in dry moss and tied 
securely. Place the plants in an upright position, on the bottom of the 
box, using a cleat to each row ; to hold them secure. If the weather is 
severe, protection against frost will be necessary, and ma.v be provided as 
I'leviously described. 

In hot weather the same method is employed witli the exception that 
damp moss is used, wrapping each ball with wax paper. Holes are bored 
through the sides of the box to admit light and air. The holes are gen- 
erally covered on the inside of the box with galvanized wire screen to 
keep mice from girdling them while on ship-board. 

Small foreign shipments are sometimes laade by removing the soil and 
placing the plants in tin boxes, filling the intervening spaces with dry 
cocanut fiber or moss. It is very important when packed in this manner 
that all the leaves be removed except those undeveloped at the top. If 
the plants have been hardened there will be little loss. It is easy to test 
any system of packing, by preparing a shipment, and lay it away for a 
period equal to that required in transportation, after which it may be 
opened and the condition of the i)lants carefully noted, or if desired pot 
them to ascertain how many will survive. 



CHAPTER JI I. 
COMMERCIAL FLOWERS. 

The general public do uot consider the diffej-ence in character of the 
many varieties now grown, but admire them for the beauty displayed. 
With the Florist it is far different as he raises flowers for the sole i)ur- 
pose of placing them on the market from a renumerative standpoint and 
tlnis should be familiar with their merits and defects. 

Commercial varieties are those which possess the desired qualitications 
and characteristics to meet the demands of the grower, wholesaler and 
consumer. 

Those most in demand are of easy culture, growing only to a mod- 
erate height (not to exceed four feet) and produce flowers of pleasing 
colors. White is pi'obably in greatest demand, next comes yellow, tlien 
pink ; with a decided preference to those which are most pure in their 
respective color tones. 

Red and bronze are grown in comparatively small quantities. 

P'orm and substance are both given consideration ; those that do not 
^lii]i well are soon condemned. 

When the stock is lo be handled through the connnission houses and 
reshipped to the retailer, the incurved varieties generally stand the 
handling with least injury. 

As a rule the Foreign varieties do not meet tlie requirements of the 
commercial grower. It is imperative they bf planted early, selecting crown 
bud to secure double flowers. If planted in .July very few of those from 
al)road can compare with American sorts. The reason is obvious. 

The Foreign raisers of seedlings, reserve those which produce the 
largest flowers — irrespective of other characteristics, as the exhibition 
class is most in demand. 

In America the bulk of the plants sold are tJiose having connnercial 
merit, hence those interested, select from their seedlings those producing 
the most pleasing colors, best foliage with strong, erect stems in pref- 
ei'ence to size alone. 

The grower who invests largely in foreign sorts, with the expectation of 
superior quality of salable stock, is prone to disapi)ointment. Inability to 
plant early, as well as failing to give as close attention to details as the ex- 
hilntion cxjicrt can. are tlie causes of the grower's downfall. 

The length of time retinii'otl to produce the crop, whether the desired 
date of flowering be early, midseason or late and the quality of blooms 
best suited for the grower's trade, are matters whi( h nnist receive con- 
sideration before selecthig the kinds and deciding upon tlie best cultural 
methods. 

As the vigor of the plants has unuh to do with the quality of blooms, 
wo would recommend planting stock of niidseason kimls from 2-inch pots 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 



21 



early in June (early and late varieties will be treated under separate 
headings). Cuttings struck early in April should be in fine condition for 
June planting, nine inches apart each way is about the right distance. 
If the demand is for medium rather than large flowers they may be stop- 
ped, allowing two or more breaks to grow on, each to make a bloom. 

^oi/— Fibrous sods cut 3 inches thick and piled grass side down the 
preceding fall with one-fifth their bulk of half decomposed mamn-e makes 
an excellent compost for tilling the benches. If it is heavy clay some 
sharji sand should be added to increase the porosity. 

Four or five inches of soil in the bench is the right depth, the furiner 
preferable. When planting firm well around the plants, leaving a slight 




FIG. 7. BENCH OF "IVORY" TIED TO WIRES. 



depre.ssiou to receive the first few waterings, the object of this course is to 
keep the soil from becoming sour. As soon as there are signs of nctlve 
growth which .usually requires about two weeks, the water slmuld lie in- 
creased gradually until the whole is thoroughly saturated. 

Fresh cut .sods are e(iually serviceable provided they are projicrly 
handled. If cut as directed tln-ee inches thick, one thickness may be laid 
grass side down and the remainder of the bench space filled with fine soil, 
or they may be run through a sod crusher, placing the coarser part at 
the bottom and the fine on top. If either these melbods are :nlopted a 
light covering of manure may be placed on the bottom of the bench before 
filling. We have grown thousands of fine blooms without the use of ma- 
nure, relying upon light apiilications of chemicals as the plants required it. 
Fibrous sods supply abundance of humus which is so essential to plant life. 

Tijiiif/ — .\s soon as the plants are 8 inches in height some arrange- 
ment must lie made for staking and tving. There are several svsteras : — 



2% 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



dwarf, short-jointed varieties, like Merza and otliers, may be tied to wires 
running full lengtli of the row, supplying additional wires when required. 
See Fig. 7. 

Some use stakes fastened at the top to a wire stretched tight over each 
jow. ^lost commercial places use the twine system, which consists of two 
v.ires. one over each row of plants and the other a few inches above the 
^(»il. Two-ply jute twine is cut the proper length and tied to top and bottom 
\\ire. To this twine the plants are tied as often as required. See Fig. S. 

Wdlcriii!/ — From this lime on the principal detail is watering, whicli 
recpiires ( onstant attention and whosoever has this charge must rely on 
his own (liscretu)n. The plants being vigorous, will use up quantities of 
water each day and from this time until the flowers are cut they must not 




FIG. 8. HKNCH SHOWINO ITAMS TIKI) TO TWINE. 



.suffer for the want of it. At the same time we must guard against over- 
doing, particularly is this the case with many of the weaker growing sorts 
\>hich suddenly tell us of our m:il-treatment by the foliage beginning to 
turn yellow, showing a sickly ajipearance. Tlie best remedy is witliholding 
vater. not to a degree that will injure the plant for want of it, but suffl- 
cient to restore its normal condition. Let the appearance of the foliage be 
an index to the supply of water. 

As long as the foliage is luxuriant and healthy in color we may feel 
assured that the supply of water is not in excess of their demands. 

To maintain these conditions it is impoi-tant that all dry spots in the 
benches be thoroughly watered before spraying the plants. 



COMMERCFAr. FLOWERS 23 

Those who prefer to do watering and spraying in one operation sliould 
walk backward, watering the dry spots as they appear and then do the 
spraying. If tlie spray reaches the diy spots tlieir identity is lost and thus 
are passed by without fully saturating. 

Spraying — Spraying overhead will be uecessai-y to keep lied Spiders 
in check, which are Aery hard to control. This process will re<iuire some 
judgment, for if repeated too often or late in the day it is apt to cause 
rust and other diseases. Tliere is not so much danger during llie hot sum- 
mer months, but from Augusi l.jth to flowering time no water should be 
applied after 3 p. m., so that the plants will be perfectly dry I»y night. 
(See diseases.) 

Airing — The chrysanthenmm does not enjoy a close, stuffy atmosphere, 
hence an abundance of air during the growing season is important. 

Not only during tlie day but night also, at all times unless the build- 
ing is in jeopardy from approachingg violent storms. 

Shading — A fe\A' years ago it was considered necessary to gi^e a light 
shading through the sununer months to Chrysanthenmnis planted under 
glass. This is hardly necessary in most localities, as shorter jointed plants 
and firmer wood result from full exposure to the sun. 

At the approach of color it is quite important the ])ink and red vaile- 
ties be partly shaded from the direct rays of the sun, as these colors seen; 
to be easily faded. There may be localities where this would be unneces- 
sary, but in the nnddle states it often continues warm and bright into 
October and such precaution is necessary to secure color of th.e higliest 
degree. 

Scalding — After a few days of dull weather (which makes the growth 
unusually soft), followed by very bright sun, the young tii»s; sometimes 
.«cald or burn. In sucli cases use every effort to prevent them from wilting. 
Frequent spraying will keep the atmosphere charged with moisture and 
be very beneficial. Should this fall, apiily a light shading of clay to the 
glass. This is ])rer)ared by adding sufficient clay to water to make it 
muddy and applied by spraying over the roof. It is luiwise to use a per- 
manent shading, and the one suggested will disaiipear with the first sliower 
or I)y spraying. 

Feeding — All plants are sustained by the constituents of the soil of 
which Xitnigen, Potash and Pliosphoric Acid are the < hief elements. 

What effect each of these factors have upon the construction of the 
plant and its fiorescent need not be discussed at this time. When these 
nutritive ingredients are exhau.sted, licjuid applications are given to supply 
their neetls and it is this operation to which the term feeding is usuall.v 
a)>]>lied. The effect of such aiiplications are revealed by the appearance 
of tlie plants and the resultant flowers thus produced. From this it is evi- 
dent that what actually takes place in this construction of plant life is ver.v 
obscure, lience we nmst be governed wholly l)y observance, determining- 
their jieeds by what is presented to us in their growth. 

There are several ways to i-cach this desired end, viz : first loji dressing 



24 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MAXl'AL 



with manure, the streii.i^th i>t which is talven to the roots in liquid form by 
tlie ai)}ili<'ation of water. Second, by extracting the soluble jiarts of ma- 
nure, diluting to the desired degree and applying in solution: third, tlie use 
of liquids made from soluble chemical salts. All three methods are equal 
as far as producing the desired crop is concerned provided they are judici- 
ously applied, but there is a marked difference in the cost of material and 
jabur involved. The jtresent price of manure, the labor reqnii'ed to make 
if ac<cssiblc to the plant far exceeds the cost of chemicals. 

Stable manure contains I14 Pt^i" cent plant food (by Government 
Analysis), or 'J5 pounds jier ton, while some of the highly concentrated 
chemical fertilizers now on the market contain »".."■. per cent actual plant 
food. It requires 2 3, 5 tons of manure to supply the same amount contain- 
ed in liM» ]iounds of such chemicals and when we consider the labor re- 
quired to handle this quantity of manure when used as a top dressing or 
r(>duced to a liquid, even the casual thinker is confronted with the ques- 
tion — why all this uinieccssary expense? The experimental station have 
taken uii these matters in detail and set forth in their reiioi-ts that chemi- 
cjils juc eipial to natural manures in the production of crops. 

\\ I' use a mixture known as Chrysaline, one jiound of which is as etli- 
( lent as 8U IVis of manure. The former is prefectly soluble while tlie latter 
must be leached in some way before it is available, one is clean and odor- 
l,.ss a- so much salt, the other dirty and offensive when manipulated In 
;;i:\ form. The strength of chemicals are known (luantities and constant, 
while manures are uncertain and variable. 

('Iiciiiirai Fertilizers — In the case of chemical fertilizers most of tlie 
failures are due to too strong application. A few years ago we were using 
('li!\s.iline at the rate of 1 ounce to C. gallons of water, but recent observa- 
tions indicate it should not l>e 
used stronger than 1 to 10 and 
when the soil contains consider- 
able manm-e 1 to 20 or 30 gal- 
lons gives far ))elter results 
wlien used before the buds are 
selected. Some will consider 
this a very weak solution, but 
experience lias shown it suth- 
cient and the old adage "better 
be safe than sorry" will be ap- 
preciated by those who use sucli 
concentrated chenncals indis- 
criminately. 

Once a week is as often as it 
should be applied to most varie- 
ties and never when the plants 
t»how signs of dryness. A very good plan is to go over the benches and 
water all dry spots beft)re applying. It is a great teuiptation to thost* who 




FIG. I». AI-l'KAKANCE Ol' 
I'Ol.tAGK WHKX OVKHFKl). 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 



25 




have not used chemical fertilizers to over do. It must be taken in>To 
-consideration when feeding solutions of any form they are talceu up 

through the roots, and the process of 
assimilation immediately follows. 

Food applied in this way is more 
available than any other, and herein 
lies our great danger; we are apply- 
ing a solution that is colorless, odor- 
less and tasteless, having every ap- 
pearance of water. 

Liquid Manure — Liquid manure was 
In use many years before chemical 
fertilizers were known and in the 
hands of the inexperienced is nmch 
safer. There are so many ways of 
formulating liquid manures that it is 
impossible to give a definite rule with 
assurance of having the best. Those 
of experience know by the color when 
it is safe to use, but such knowledge 
is difficult to impart to others. The 
following rules are considered safe; 
Vz bushel of horse or cow manure to 
1 barrel of water. These proportions 
are practically 1 pint to the gallon, 
so that those requirng a small quant- 
ity can make to suit their needs. Sheep manure is strong and will re- 
quire li-j barrels of water for tbe same quantity. Hen ami pigeon maiuires 
are excellent, Init being very strong are safest when used in weak solution, 
and should not exceed 1 pound to 10 gallons. 

In preparing these liquids the manure is generally put in a coarse 
burlap bag, allowing it to soak for two or three days. A box or barrel 
may be filled and water applied, leach fa.shion, but the liquid thus obtained 
is very strong and will need diluting. An old rule is to dilute lo the 
color of weak coffee, but this is hardly safe as some of the strong manure 
give light colored liquids. 

As we know little regarding the strength of solutions made from ma- 
terial at our disposal, the subject is more or less a matter of guess. Fine 
blooms may be obtained by their use, and by closely observing growth of 
the plant and quality of flowers it will soon be apparent how to use for 
best results. 

Whei'e the soil is fairly rich with manure there is little or no need of 
feeding until after they have been disbudded. If resorted to at all, the 
applications should be very dilute or the plants will become too gross at 
this period, which is marked by the thick crisp or harsh feeling foliage. 

When a leaf pressed between the thumb and finger cracks and will 
not return to its normal position it is evident the ti'eatment has been too 



FIG. 10. BLIND GROWTH 



FROM EXCESSIVE NUTRIMENT. 



26 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

generous. Siieli coiulitions frequently cause some vai'ieties to become 
blind, that is the joints do not elongate but form a compact mass of 
foliage at tlie toji of the stem and literally refuse to iiroduce buds. In 
either case it is liest to discontinue feeding, so tliat nature may help 
to rectify this error. 

Lime — T.ime and iron enter into tlie construction of the plant to a 
limited degree, but I)oth of these are generally found in sufficient quanti- 
ties in most soils T>ime acts a.s a decomposing agent, liberating ammoni- 
um and minerals contained in the compost, and has a decided solidifying 
etfect upon the idant tissues. It is l)est applied by dusting air-slacked lime- 
lightly over the surface of the bed and should be rubbed in with the hands 
cr slightly raked Itefore water is applied, otherwise it becomes hard and 
is of little value. 

Jr())i — Iron may lie applied in the fnvm of iron filings as a top-dressing 
or incorporated in tlic coiiipost. at tlie i-ate of a pint to the bushel, or by 
tlissolving a half-oniKc of snl|pliatc of in»n (copperas) in five gallons of 
watei- and af)])ly this solution. Tt may be added in sraall quantities to 
cliemiciil or mainu'ial li'inids. 

liiirnUtfi and Daiiipiini — Experience teaches us that the red varieties 
and more sensitive and first to show this defect. Some of the pink and 
wliite and occasionally a yellow burn or damp when conditions are fav- 
oralile. From the fact that flowers produced under ordinary cultivation 
are seldom thus affected it is-quite ai>r>arent tiiat the concentration of 
food to the iietals is the main cause and this is augmented by excessive 
lieat and iiioistuiv. 

'J'o avoid such conditions put on full air early in the day and if pos- 
sible do all the watering at this time, so that the plants and atmosphere 
ni;iy become thoroughly dry before night. 

In vei'v damp weather it is sometimes necessar\ to turn on a little- 
heat to keep the air dry and buoyant, even if the temperature does not 
(ienumd it. 

'J'be accnmnlation of food elements in the petals beyond a certain 
amount are transformed by chemical action of heat or dampness into an 
acid, which dissolves the tissues. Why this defect is so apparent in some 
\arieties and not in others we are unable to say, unless lacking in the- 
(lualit.v of sul)stance. Oet varieties thus inclined into active growth, and 
discontinue feeding after the buds become half developed. They ma.v lack 
a tritle in size, but be consoled by tlie fact that your (lowers are not 
ruined. Some competent growers advocate tlu^ use of ciian-oal dust mixed' 
in the soil as a preventive. 

Top-JhcKxiiiii — If the vletails given have I>een atrended to, in the 
course of six to eight wet'ks the stock will be making rapid growtli, and 
the roots extending to all jiarts of the soil. At this period they will 
require some additional food and a light top-dressing of manure from 
sjient hot-beds in a half rotted state, or dry indverized cow or sheep ma-- 
nure may be used to advantage. 

If the stock has been i.lanted by May l.'illi, this oi»eration will take' 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 27 

place early in July, and 30 days later the second top-dressing may lie ap- 
plied. If the planting does not occur until the first week of 
Jinie, we would advise giving the first top dressing second or third 
week of July, and second the third week of August, provided the plants 
are in a healthy, active state and appear to need further encouragement. 

While top-dressing is very beneficial, it has one disadvantage, and 
Ihat is covering the soil so its condition cannot he readily determined by 
the eye. Some use three inches of top-dressiny- and :ip]ily it all at once. 
Watering under such conditions and do justice to the stock is difficult, as 
it must be done by guess or the soil under the dressing be carefully exam- 
ined ; it may be dry in places and wet in otJiers. By making the manure 
fine, adding and thoroughly mixing an equal amount of loam, will furnish 
material for an excellent dressing. This can be easily distributed on the 
benches any desired thickness, in accordance ^^■ith the needs of the variety 
being treated, or in consistency with the strength of the material used. 

If sheep manure is used one inch of this mixture is ample for the 
vigorous kinds and less for the weak ones. When horse or cow manure 
is 'used IV2 inches will be about right. This should Vie firmed down to 
come in close contact with the soil. In this way the dry spots will be 
come apparent on the surface of the beds, which is ♦:he only object of this 
process. 

If fine manure is not at hand and that of a eoarse nature is substi- 
tuted, it should be placed between the rows leaving some space )iext to the 
plants uncovered so the condition of the soil can be detected at a glance. 

Removing Stools — Plants that have been top-dressed soon throw up 
stools or suckers from the ground. These should be removed as soon a.-? 
they appear, care being taken not to injure the roots in so doing. This 
operation should be repeated from time to time as necessity demands. 

Buds — In this branch of chrysanthemum culture there is little neces- 
sity that any great kno\Aledge be acquired regai'ding the two forms of 
buds, crown and terminals. 

Those interested in this subject see buds aud disbudding next chaiiter. 

It matters little whether the bud selected is crown or terininal. The 
iuiportant knowledge to acquire is, what date gives the best fiower. 

The bulk of chrysanthemums j'lantetT for connnercial use do not set 
early crowiis, owing to late ]ilantiug. Some make second crowns late in 
August, and those planted in July give ternnnals in Seiitember and Octo- 
ber. 

It is for this reason the mastery of these oliscure terms are unes- 
sential. 

All that the Commercial grower needs to know regarding this subject 
ntay be sunnned as follows : Buds of Early varieties itlanted during May 
and June should be selected from August 10th to 2."»th. 

Midseason kinds Aug. 25th to Sept. 10th and the late sorts, Sept. 20th 
to Oct. 10, according to when the buds are apparent and of sufficient 
size to admit of disbudding. 

The dates given are resultant of many years' records and adequate. 



2S SMITH'S CHRi'SANTHEMUM MANUAL 

Buds of new varieties, or tliose wliieh liave not been tested, sliould 
be selected at intervals of tive days, from Aug. 20th to Sept. lOtli, at- 
taching a tree lal>el with the date it was retained. If the tiower is single 
an earlier date may remedy this defect and if too double or poor in color 
a later date may be beneficial. 

Such a course is the only way to become familiar with this i)rouunent 
feature and a record of the results should be filed for future reference. 

At flowering time it is easy to determine the best dates, and in mak- 
ing these deductions, let purity of color be fully considered. The various 
dates at which the buds of the white varieties are selected, will have no 
material effect upon the color. 

Decided variations are noticed in the pinks and yellows and the great- 
01 the different in date of selecting the bud, the more contrast. The 
least permanent color is pink and it is intensified or reduced by variance 
in such conditions as heat, air, sunlight and date of buds. 

Flowers from early buds are the lightest, and those from latest buds, 
darkest in color, provideii other conditions are equal. 

Yellow is not so easily affected by conditions, although some varieties 
described as yellow will become bronzy on late buds. When the flowers 
are developing, an abundance of air, a light shading, to exclude the bright 
.sun, and a late bud, will give the highest color and best substance. 

Each grower must decide the best date for selecting buds, as the con- 
ditions he maintains may be somewhat at variance with those of others. 

Late buds develop more rapidly than the early ones, in fact there is 
very little difference in the maturity of those selected August ir)tli, and 
September 5tli, provided they are the same variety. 

Should the late buds intensify the color too much, giving the pinks 
an ol>jectionaI)le purplish hue, and the yellow come bronzy, it would be 
better to decide upon an earlier bud for future croi)s, providing the other 
qualities are equal. 

The date of the Inids also has effect on fullness and size of the 
llowers. The early buds give the largest flowers, and are more double, 
but the petals are narrow compared with those from later buds. 

The flower buying public insist that the stems be of good length and 
well clothed with foliage. All concede those produced from terminal buds 
are of brighter color and amply provided for as far as foliage is con- 
cerned, also much easier managed than the crowns. 

Earli/ — Since pul)lishing the second edition of this work the flowering 
season has advanced two months. This is due to the introduction of 
Golden Glow and Smith's Advance, both of which may be had in bloom 
from July to OctoI)er, accoiiling to when the.v are planted and date the 
Inids are selected. Formerly all varieties flowering l)y October I'th were 
<'onsidered early, but at present such should be termed semi-early. 

Those desiring flowers prior to October should arrange to bench the 
plants in April or early in May, which would necessitate the cuttings 
lieing put into sand in March, securing l)uds in June. July or early August, 
ficcording to when they ai>pear. Should the early or crown I)ud develop 



COMMERCIAL FLOWERS 29 

too early on Smith's Advance, it may he removed and the next one 
secured, but Golden Glow usually iiroduces buds as soon as the benches 
are filled with roots, and the lateral growths wliich follow the early bud 
terminate in a cluster of terminal buds so that the removal of the early 
bud \\ill not greatly retard the flowering season. With this variety the 
date of planting should be considered before hand if the crop is desired 
at a certain time. From past experience we would suggest planting in 
i^arly May for flowers late in August and eai-ly September, and early in 
June for late September crop. By planting every two weeks from May 
10th to June 25th, succession may be had from August -0 to late October. 

Such semi-early varieties as Monrovia and October Frost should be 
planted early in May if September flowei's are desired and buds selected 
soon after July 15th. Both of these varieties produce rather thin flowers 
when planted late or where the later buds are retained. 

The slow development of these early buds giAes size and fullness 
that cannot be otherwise obtained. We can not too strongly impress the 
Importance "of early planting, all kinds that are needed before November 
1st, and it should be the endeavor to have them benched early in June 
(it the latest. It is foolish to expect early flowers from late planted 
fctock, even though the varieties are naturally early flowering. 

Late — For late flowers select varieties which naturally mature late, 
find keep them in a growing state as long as possible. To secure late 
buds give a liberal amount of water and at the approach of cold nights 
lessen the supply of air: this will tend to keep the growth soft. The mid- 
season varieties planted late in July or early August are usually satis- 
factory. When this plan is adopted do not use very rich soil and with- 
hold liquid fertilizers until disbudded, otherwise they are apt to come 
blind. Buds secured from (Ictober 1st to 15th will perfect flowers between 
I hanksgiving and Christmas. 

Height of Plants — It is sometimes advantageous to take crown buds 
rather than terminals, owing to limited space between I)ench and glass. 

To know the height a variety \y\\\ attain at maturity is important, 
particularly when head room is limited. If records have not been kept 
it is wise to confer with those who give these matters constant stud.v 
find can suggest varieties suitable for the purpose. 

When to Cut — At what stage of development the flowers should be 
cut is perplexing to some. The petals have more substance when fuU.v 
matured, and for this reason most varieties should not be cut before 
center petals are developed. This gives greater dei)th, adding to finish 
of bloom.s, as well as increasing the keeping qualities and are thereby 
in better condition to stand the wear and tear of shipping and handling. 
It is allowable to cut early varieties unmatured, if fancy prices result 
therefrom, otherwise it is best to let tliem stand. Varieties having open 
centers when fidly developed may also l»e cut premature. All blooms 
should be stored in water at least 12 hours before sending to the market. 



CHAPTER nil. 



KXIUBITION HLOOMS 



The term Exliiltition Blooms refers to the vnrieties which are most 
t^erviceahle in disphiying tlie greatest development of size, and as size 
is the chief characteristic considered, many of the best kinds for this 
[lurpose ar«' of little conserinence to the commercial grower. There are 
■i few possessing commercial qnalifications which are of sufficient size to 
he of some imitortance at the exhibitions, especially where the schedule 
calls for 20 oi- more lilooms to be shown on long stems in one vase. In 
such competitions rigid stems with an abundance of foliage, close to the 
blooms often so enhance the exhibit as to merit the award over those 
iiaving greater size, but deficient in stem and foliage. Such varieties as 
r.etsy IJoss, \V. II. Cliadwick and its several s]iorts. Tiiiiotliy Eaton and 
Y<'liow Kat(jn, etc., are well adapted to this purpose. 

In begiiuiing this cliai)ter we wish to impress upon the reader the 
fallacy of laying down hard, fast rules, for many of the best growers 
obtain satisfactory results under a system of their own or at least 
nttribute their success to certain methods not usually followed, and yet 
equally good results are reached by other courses. The first steps neces- 
sary in the production of the largest and finest blooms is to establish 
strong, vigorous iilants and maintain this condition throughout their 
existence. I>ack of water, food, light and air or an over supply of water 
and food are debilitating. There are two systems which ma.v be employeiT 
--one to plant upon lienches, as directed in preceding chapter, and in 
pots similar to the method followed by the gardeners of England. The 
oidy difference is the.v plunge their plants out of doo]'S until the apiu'oach 
of the flowering season, while we grow them under glass entirely. This 
system is looked uiiou with favor by most of the ]irivate gardeners in 
this country. 

It is conce<led that early propagation is essential if we excel in this 
undertaking, as a long period of growth seems to impart greater vigor. 
Cuttings should be .started in February or early March at the latest. 'Wheu 
rooted, pot into small pots and keep in a cool, light and airy house. A 
low temperature, 40 degrees or as near as possible, is preferable to excit- 
ing growth, with greater heat. A light, friable soil (decomposed sods pre- 
ft rred) <ontaining one-tifth of its bulk of well-rotted uiaruu'e and half this 
amount of half-decayed leaves that have been rubbed tin'ough a screen, is 
vctiuisite. 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS ai 

Bench Systew — Assuming the cuttings liave been rooted and potted 
into small pots and placed in a cool place, watering and giving all the air 
possible is all the attention required for the next few weeks. As the 
roots come through to the sides of the pots they will need shifting intt> 
the next size larger. If they are first in two-inch pots, three-inch will 
be required for the tirst shift and 2yo-inch in Si^-inch or 4-inch. When 
propagated in February it may be necessary to shift again in still larger 
sized pots to prevent them from becoming pot bound and thus check their 
growth. 

Soil — Complete directions on this subject given in the preceding cliait- 
ter are applicable here as well as the preparation of tlie benches. 

Planting — Those who have houses of sutllcient height and can plant 
by May loth, doubtless have best results inasnmch as the plant: has a 
longer period of growth and becomes thoroughly established. 

As to depth of soil it may be from four to six inches, the former 
preferred, as tliere is less liability of its becoming sour by overwatering 
before the plants are well established. When tJie benches are made ready 
and filled, the next step is to decide how far apart they shall be planted. 
There are many opinions upon this subject, and without question the best 
results are obtained where ample room is gi\en for full development by 
free admission of air. Ten to twehe inches apart each way is little 
enough ; much depends upon the size of tlie foliage. In planting, firm 
them well, leaving a slight depression around each plant to receive the 
fii"st few applications of water, but do not wet entire until the plants 
make new roots and are strong enough to utilize all the soil. 

This condition is apparent at the pushing forth of vigorous growth 
\Ahich indicates a corresponding strong root action. At this stage the 
whole soil should lie watered. 

Firming — After the plants begin making rapid growth, go over the 
bench with a brick or heavy mallet and firm the soil, so that the original 
four inches will not exceed three when firmed. If of a porous nature it 
can scarcely be overdone, but if stiff claj*, caution is advisable lest the 
drainage be impaired. By planting in shallow soil and finning it well, 
conditions are established very similar to those of the pot system, which 
will produce short-jointed plants. 

Tying — The directions given Commercial growers will here suffice. 
Those who prefer stake instead of twine can stretch a wire three feet 
above the bench o^'er each row and tie wire or bamboo stakes thereto, 
to which the plants are tied as soon, and often, as their growth reiiuires 
support. 

Buds and Disbudding — At just what time to save the buds is ever 
a very perjilexing problem to the expert, inasmuch as climatic conditions 
have a great deal to do with the results. The change of temperature 



32 



SMITH'S CHRVSANTHEMUM r^lAXL'AL 



vbiob takes plai-e in the autuiaii months lias a tendency to npen or 
solidify the wood, and is innnediately followed by bud formation. In the 
northern hemisphere this change 
generally takes place from the 
1st of August to the 1st of Sep- 
tember, according to location. 
Those living at a high altitude 
or ad.iacent to large bodies of 
water are lirst to feel the 
change, hence are favored with 
early liuds. In the southern 
hemisphere this change takes 
this reason the chrysanthemum 
flowers in Australia during the 
months of IMarch and April. 

Having set forth these facts 
that climatic conditions are in- 
strumental in bring about this 
desired Imd state, we must all 
consider our own locality and be 
govei'ned accordingly. Some of 
the experts secure buds on some 




¥IG. 11 



CROWNS AS THKY AI'IM AR ON 
THE ILAXT. 

varieties as early as the first of August, and get magniti'cnt blooms 
therefrom. Doubtless they have solved the problem, as far as they are 
concerned, Imt there are others not so favore<l. We donlit if those located' 
in the middle states where the heat continues tln-ougb the montli of 
August and sometimes into September, would find such an early date 
practical, unless for .some of the early varieties which naturally set eai-ly 
I aids. 

In this locality (Southern Michigan) I)est results ar(> trou; Inids taken 
August 2."t)i, <n- soon after, with the exception of a fev,- kinds, which are 

single unless earlier I)uds are se- 
cured. Many varieties that de- 
velop to the highest degree on 
the Atlantic and Pacific coasts 
from eai'ly August buds refuse 
to expand properly under more 
ai'id conditions. 

As soon as the new varieties 
are I>rought under our care we 
make a record of the date of 
disbudding, selecting a few of 
the earliest, and repeating this 
o])eration as far as possible 
every five days, up to the mid- 
4lle of Seriteniber. When the 
flowers are cut we make a 



FKi 12. (KOWN WHEN RESERVED. 

record of best dates, and the next year we are in a fair position to know 




EXHIBITION BLOOMS 



33 



just what course to follow. These records are made on tree labels and 
attached to the plant. 

Taking the Buds — Taking the buds is an old and obscure term which 
simplj' means selecting the best and removing all otliers. Tliere are two 
forms of buds : Crown and Terminal. The Crown is formed first and if re- 
moved the lateral growths which surround it will make buds later. The 
Terminal bud is the termination of the final growth and must be retained 
as there are no buds to follow. They have also been termed as follows : 
A Crown bud is surrounded by vegetative shoots and not by other buds. A 
Terminal bud is surrounded by otlier buds and not by vegetative shoots. 
hard, thus checking the growth without impairing the quality of the 
flowers. 

On plants that liave been planted early the crown buds often become 
apparent early in August. See Fig. 12. If these are removed the adjacent 
xegetative growths push forward and will set another bud which is gener- 
ally a crown and often termed "second crown," late in August or 1st of 
September; much depending upon climatic conditions and treatment of the 
plant. If this bud is removed 
the lateral growths will push 
forward, and in the course of 
a few weeks develop a cluster 
of buds which are terminal or 
final, as this completes the 
plant's growth. See Fig. 13. 

The chief merits of the crown 
buds are size and nuiltiplieation 
of petals. Many of the foreign 
varieties, particularly those 
raised in England, are worthless 
from late buds, p r o d u c i n g 
flowers with open centers, and 
in many cases so much so that 
they could be classified as single. 
The tendency of crown buds 
is towards loss in color and 
foliage. Varieties that produceriG. 1,3. lateral retained for later bud. 
pink or red flowers from terminal buds are inclined to be white or bronze 
from crowns. 

Long, bare stems are due to selection of early crown buds. Tliis 
defect can be reduced to some extent by firming the soil until it is very 
hard, thus checking the growth without impairing the quality of 
the flowers. 

It has been suggested that the term "single bud" be applied to the one 
known as crown and "cluster l)ud" to the one known as terminal. We can 
see no objection to using these terms and thus may be able to convey our 
ideas to the amateur more clearlv. 




34 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



Fig. 11 shows tlie crown bud 
the hiteral growths. If we de- 
cide to save the crown bud, re- 
move all hiterals so it will ixyi- 
pear like Fig. 12, and if a later 
bud is i)referred remove tlie 
crown and all laterals but one. 
as shown in Fig. 13. T h e 
lateral retained will give a bud 
later. It may be a second crown 
or tei-minai, depending largely 
uju)!! the date of this operation. 
After the lateral growths are 
removed, the energy of the plant 
will l>e directed to the bud wliich 
begins to expand. Should the 
buds appear a fe\w days too 
early, remove the laterals grad- 
ually, day by day, completing 
the ojieration on the best date. 
In this way the l)uds may be hel 
1 in check without injury; althd 
gh wouldnot advise retarding tl 



they appear on the plant with 




FIG. 14. TERMINALS AS THEY Ai'l'EAIi. 



iem longer than eight or ten days. 




KiG. ir. 



IKKMIN \r, AITKU r.EINt: 
DISIU'DDEI). 



When terminal (Cluster bud) 
is desired remove the crown, 
allowing one of the lateral 
growths which surround it to re- 
main. In the course of a few 
weeks this growth will have at- 
tained some length and show a 
cluster of Inids. When well ad- 
vanced it will be noticed that 
there is one at the aiiex of the 
stem and one at each of the leaf 
axils, as shown in Fig. 11. 

If the center or apex bud ap- 
pears perfect, retain it by re- 
moving all others with the 
thuml) and finger. This opera- 
tion is termed '•dislunldiug" and 
should be done as soon as buds 
are of sufficient size to do the 
work without injuring tlie one 
retained. Should the center one 
lie imi>erfect or injured from 
any cause, save the next best. 
See Fig. l.". 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 



35 



The whole subject of buds resolves itself into a few simple facts 
which each grower must take into consideration before taking any 
decisive steps, viz. : climatic conditions, date of the exhibition, classes 
iu which they are to compete, and peculiarities of the varieties under 
consideration. 

The operation of disbudding should be confined to the early hours of 
the day as far as possible, at which time the growth is nun-e brittle and 
can be easily removed with thumb and finger. As soon as the buds are 




riG. 10. SHOWING the effect of early and late buds upon the 

FORM AND COLOR. 



formed, lateral growth from the leaf axils i)ush forward. These shouM 
be removed as fast as they appear, or the bud will be robbed of its 
nourishment which lias l)een previously provided. 

Stopping — Most of the exliibition growers of England have given con- 
siderable thought to what they term "timing" the buds, that is, having 
the flowers in perfection at a certain date. To this end they resort to 
stopping many varieties. The object is to force flowers at an earlier date 
than they would naturally mature if allowed to make a natiu-al break. 
This system has not been practiced in this country to any great extent, 
although it may be worthy of consideration as competition grows keener. 

Record of Operations — In a work where there are so many conditions 
which have influence upon the result, it is very important that each opera- 
tor keep a fairly complete record of (inantity and quality of fertilizers, 
and when applied, height of plants at maturity, date of bud, and general 
connnents as to merit. iSuch records are invaluable for future reference. 

Such details as watering, spraying, airing and shading are fully de- 
luied in the chanter devoted to connnercial flowers. 

Feeding — This operation is also fully treated in the preceding chai"- 



36 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



ter. It is impossible to give explicit directions as all tleiieiuls upon the- 
coudition under which the plants are grown and for this reason it is 
difficult to impart this knowledge to others with any degree of accuracy. 

The chrysanthemum, unlike most plants grown under glass, has its 
season of growth and its season of flowering, hence our object is to pro- 
duce good, healthy growth and concentrate all energies to the develop- 
ment of the flower. Some varieties will stand much more food than 
others and profit thereby. To reach the acme with all varieties, the 
grower must be familiar with the special requirements of each, knowing 
when to stop feeding his variety and increase tlie ap]»lication upon 
another. 

It is but a step from success to failure, and so it is in these days 
of close competition, the expert wins out in one class and his opi)onent 
defeats him in the next ; each having brought their exhibits to the high- 
est degree of perfection in one case, and a trifle faulty in the other. 





FIG. 17. i:UD PROPERLY EXPAND- 
ING, 



FIG. IS. I5UDS DISTORTED FROM EXCES- 
SIVE FOOD. 



Feeding is generally continued until the buds begin to burst and show 
color, and some growers do not discontinue until the flowers are half 
developed. But if such a course is followed we would advise diluting the 
application to one-half the strength used when the plants are in an 
active growing state. We must remember that after buds are formed, 
the growth, so far as the plant is concerned, is at an end, and whatever 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 



37 



we apply in tbe way of food is immediately taken to the parts which 
are now being constructed, namely the petals. 

At this stage of development the foliage on healthy plants will be 
dark green and glossy, which is due to the high living, but is not indi- 
cative of excessive feed ; unless the leaves are curling badly and very 
important detail can only be gained by the closest observation, learning 
to know the need by appearance of the growth. 

It is no great credit to stage a winning dozen if hundreds have been 
ruined to secure this "survival of the fittest," it is high average that 
denotes accomplishment in this art. 

Pot System — Growing to maturity in pots has some advantages espe- 
cially with respect to feeding as the roots are more closely confined, each 




FIG. 19. BUDS BLASTED BY THE USE OF TOO STKOXG 
FERTILIZERS. 



brittle. Under such conditions caution is advisable. The mastery of this 
variety can be treated as to its specific needs and again the small (piallty 
of earth to which the roots are restricted permits of more frequent 
application of liquid fertilizers. 

As soon as the plants in small pots need shifting it should be given 
immediate attention and with each shift a soil of a coarser nature should 
be used. Such material is usually available when plenty of sod compost 
is at hand. 

The shifting continues until the flowering size is reached, which are 
generally 8" in diameter. When the cuttings are struck in February this 
final potting takes place early in June and liberal drainage should lie pro- 
vided by the use of broken pots and fibrous parts of sod. Tamping it very 
firm with a blunt stick. As soon as they reach the flowering size they 
are placed about 12 inches apart each way on the benches that have 
previously had an inch covering of coal ashes or sand to assist in retain- 
ing moisture. After providing a system for tying, the same details as 
given in the bench system will be adequate if given close and constant 
attention. 



CHAPTER IX 



RLOOMS GROW N OL'T-OF-DOOK.S' 



It is not to he iireisuiiied that siircess ran he achieved in exliihition 
Moouis grown out-of-doors, wliere very cold weather creei)s into tlie laii of 
Antuum, or severe frosts and freezing weatlier nia\- he expected during 
the month of Xoveniher; therefore, it slioukl hardly he attempted in 
other than the southern states. The hest location in the garden for this 
IHirpose should lie one iirotected as much as possiltle from storms, hlowing 
rains and winds, and all the hetter if a spot ;'>(> to -lo feet square can he 
selected, and a C-fodt close-hoard fence huilt all around. 

Ir is a mistake to set out plants for this puriiose earlier than May, 
and even as late as June, although many growers are in the hahit of 
conmiencing earliei*. The results they have at hlooming time are gi'eat 
tall plants, inclined to he spindling and not of that stuixly, stocky nature 
which invariably produces the better blooms. Besides they have worked 
a month or more at their plants that is wholly unnecessary. 

Soil' should I»e of a stiff rather than loamy character, liberally fertil- 
ized with manure from the cow lot, which will make It; suBiciently rich 
and jiorons for a l>eginning. Beds should be parallel, three feet wide, 
with two-foot walks between and raised six inches, that drainage may 
lie liad at all times. It is well to box in the lieds with boai*ds six inches 
wide, and use a few inches of gra\'el for the walks between the beds, 
'i'wo rows of ))lants 12 inches apart in the rows are proper distances for 
setting out in the beds. Get them straight and uniform, and have a few 
suriijus plants in case any should die or fail to start off properly, that 
the rank and file may he in no instance broken. 

Do not use foo many varieties, and have at least a row of each kind, 
selecting those in preference that have been prize takers at the principal 
llower shows. A plant will make three exhilntion Iilooms of as good 
(luality if well fertilized as it will one, so after pinching off the end wlien 
the I'lant is 12 inches higli. allow but three well-selected limbs to grow, 
and no more during the entire life of the plant, with the olijeet of one 
liloom to the limli. or three to each plant. The best means of staking and 
tying is the wire fence method. Place stout stakes as tall as the plants 
will grow, eight oi- ten feet ajiart in the row, stretch wire, fence-fashion, 
to which the iilants ai'c tied and repeat this opei'ation as often as re- 
(luired. 

Never allow 1 he beds to become dry. but water and sjiray the iilants 
each day ;; Cter sundown, and during .\nixnst sprinkle with lione-meal 



*.^. J. Mitchfll, Houston, Texa.s. who ha.s devoted much time and atten- 
li'.n to t)ie chiy.'santhcnium. partictilarly the .-subject of exhibiting- and juds- 
!!'.;-, has kindly suiii^Iied the foreginy- artich-. 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 3* 

around the roots of the plants and give a two-inch top dressing of well- 
rotted manure from the cow lot. The idea should be to cause the roots 
to grow laterally rather than downward, hence a great depth in the 
beds is unnecessary. 

Liquid fertilizers made about the strength of wealv tea from hen, 
sheep and cow manure is best, and will contain all the chemical ingredi- 
ents that the plants will require. This liquid fertilizing should com- 
mence about September 1st, and 10 days later the first setting of iiower- 
ing buds will appear. 

When buds show color stoji all fertilizing and give soft w.-iter. A 
covering of canvas laid on sloiiing rafters should be given the beds to 
protect the opening blooms from rain or dust, in fact not a drop of water 
should be allowed to come in contact with a bloom at any time, and 
great care should be used in spraying. 

Disbudding will have to l)e closely attended to, allowing but one (the 
most promising) to each limb, and usually the terminal bud is chosen for 
best results. The crown or early center I)nd is best for some varieties, 
but experience wjll have to be the teacher. Watch for insects closely; 
caterpillars, aphis, mealy bugs and corythuca that huddle on the under 
side of the leaves. Keep on the lookout for these enemies, and at the 
first indication apply tobacco tea or strong soapsuds to ])revent their 
getting a strong foothold. 

Do not expect blooms grown out-of-doors to be quite as nice as those 
with greenhouse- protection, where these elements can be !uore surely 
controlled. The gtower should never attempt exhibition blooms of any 
character if ke.Js not prepared to devote time each day to them, and 
under no circumstances allow the slightest procrastination or neglect. 
The plants in time will repay most handsomely. 

Australian Method — The conditions in the southern states are similar 
to those of Australia, admitting of the flowering of chrysanthemums 
out-of-doors. Thinking that the methods employed there may be of service 
to southern growers we give the following suggestions by G. Brunning 
& Sons, Australia: It should be taken into consideration that their 
spring is our fall ; so that where the month is specified we should add six 
months. This would make September, Marcli, or tlie proper time to begin 
]iropogation. And again, where it refers to the buils aiii»ei!ring in Febini- 
ary, we should substitute August. 

"Stand the old plants of the pre\ious season in ^ome ojieii, airy posi- 
tion to break. From these suitable cuttings of about three inches in 
length are taken in September (March"). After removal of some of the 
lower leaves the cuttings are inserted singly in two or three-inch pots 
filled with light, open soil and plunged in sand in a close glass frame. 
The only attention required until they are rooted being an occasional 
Asatering or sprinkling and ventilation for an hour or two in the morning. 

"When the plants are fairly established and hardened off, repot into 
5-inch pots, using a good open soil and well-drained pots. The soil need 
r.ot be too rich as only a moderate growth is desirable at the present 



40 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL. 



stage. Pinch out the lending shoot at tliis time, thus causing the side 
buds to break and furnish the necessary leading growth. The plants are 
plunged in sand in an open sunny position and progress rapidly, so that 
by the second week in November (May) the.v are ready for 7-iucli pots, 
A\ hen a little richer soil tlian previously used can be substituted, in wliich 
they may remain until the first week in January, (July). 

"Now, instead of removing them into larger pots, break a good sized 
hole in the iiottom of the pot in which they now are and plunge to the 
rim iu a well-drained and sheltered bed, placing some good prepared soil 




FIG. 20. SHELTER OF SNUG HARBOR. 



xnider them, (such as a mixture of heavy loam, peat, sand and manure), 
say in the following proportions: Vt heavy loam, 14 peat, 14 sand and 
Vi horse droppings: add some crushed bones, wood ashes and a little soot. 
Should heavy loam not be procurable clay may be used as a substitute. 

"By this method an opjiortunity is afforded them with liquid manure 
much easier and often than could be done if planted out in the open 
ground, and the I'lants will not attain such a height, provided they are 
firmly potted when shifted into the 7-inch pots. 

"Tlie only liquid manure we would advocate is made by filling a 
small bag with al)out 28 lbs. of fresh cow dung, adding a little soot (about 
4-inch pot full) placing same in a tub containing 20 gallons of water, 
leaving it to stand three or four days before using. Dilute V2 piut of this 
mi.xture to 2 gallons of water. Renew this preparation every two or three 
A\eeks. This manure may i»e given from the second week in January 
(July), not oftener than once a week till the buds are taken, as over- 



EXHIBITION BLOOMS 



41 



manuring has a tendency toward promoting blind buds and in their later 
stages causing blooms to damp." 

Shelter or Snug Harhor — At tlie approach of cool nights protection 
will be necessary where the flowers are to be perfected out-of-doors. The 
plan generally adopted is to build a light framework upon whicli cloth 
is stretched and fastened to form a roof. For tlie sides a cloth cui-tain 
should be provided and fastened in sucli a manner that it may be rolled 
up from the bottom to admit air on pleasant days. If the plants are 
situated next to a building or tight board fence this will answer for one 
side of the enclosure to which the framework may be attached. See 
fig. 20. 



CH AFTER X. 



INSECTS 



Aphis — The black and green apliis infest eliry.santlieniiims in all 
stages of their development and are very persistent in their depredations. 
The best remedy for the amateur ^yho grow their plants out-of-doors 
is to aiHily one of the several forms of tobacco extract, such as Nico- 
Fume, To-Bak-Ine, etc., which can be purchaseil of any of the large sup- 
ply houses in quantities to suit the need with directions for its use. This 
is diluted and applied with a spray immp. Ilaunnond's Thrip Juice No. 
2, reconnnended for Thrip, will keep the plants very clean and is applied 
tlie same \vay. 

Tobacco dust is often useful when only a few plants are effected, and 
is applied dry after the foliage has been wet so it will adhere. 

Those who devote 
a considerable area 
to chrystanthemunis 
under glass will find 
an easier way to 
eradicate aphis is by 
the use( of tobacco 
stems as a fumigant 
or by using Hydor- 
cyanic Acid (ias. 

If tobacco stem.3 
are used it is neces- 
sary to dampen them 
a few hours ahead 
so they will burn 
slowly and prevent 
blazing, wliich gen- 
erates heat and gas* 
that often burns the 
foliage. Some prefer 
tobacco dust or a 
manufactured article 
tailed Tobacco Punk, 
wliich is strips o' 
liajter saturated v/itli 
nicotine. Both of 
these I turn slowly 
and are very satis- 
f.ictoi'y. 

In fumigating witli 
toliacco there is less dangei' of burning the tender tips if the foliage is wet 
and with Cyanide it should be dry, so avoid spraying late in the day it 
is to be used. 

ChrDSonthrinimi Miihir — Th," <hr\santhennim midge, or gall Hy, as 
known among entomologists, is I )iartlir()n.)mya bypngea 11. Lw. It was 




KKi. 21. CIIKYSANTHEMUM SHOWING (i.\I.l. 



INSECTS 



43 



reported in Europe as infesting several species of Clirysantlienunns, and 
it appeared in this country on our establislmient. In August, 3914, one 
of the empolyees called the writer's attention to a few peculiar blisters 
or swellings upon leaves of the new variety, Mistletoe, which had been 
purchased the preceding si»ring. 

Having had no previous experience with other species of gall fly, 
it was not consideredd of great inii)ortance. 

The following February many other varieties showed this infection 
and in some cases to such an extent as to render the young growth unfit 
for propagating purposes. 

We now began to realize how serious the conditions, and if means of 
control were unavailable the Chrysanthennnn industry would soon be 
destroyed. In March samples of infested plants were sent to Michigan 
Agricultural College and very soon Trof. E. H. Pettit arrived, making 
thorough examination, pronouncing it a species of gall fly. At his insti- 
gation samples were submitted to Dr. E. P. Felt, State Entemologist for 
the University of New York, who, by the end of March, identified it as 
the Euroi>ean species given above. 

Since then the several Federal and State inslitntions interested in sudi 
subjects have devoted considerable time to further investigations. 

Thus ends the American history up to the itresent, but unfortunately 
the n)idge still endures and jn-objiMy will continuf to be a menace to a 
greater or less tlegree, 
depending upon how thor- 
ough and vigilant the 
growers of this country 
are in the applications of 
the various remedies 
reconnnendeil. 

Doubtless it has come 
upon us through importa- 
tion of stock. In the adult 
stage it is a minute fly 
1.7o milometers (about 
one-twelfth of an i n c h 
long), and in this stage 
deposits its eggs wiiich in 
a few days begin de\elop- 
ment showing slight swell- 
ings or galls. 

By opening these galls 
we find a yellow colored 
maggot, which, in the 




rn:. 2i 



VnULT FEMALE, EMARCiED. NA1URA 
SIZE ABOUT l]o INCH. 

course of time, develops to Courtesy of Bureau of Entomology, T'. S. 
the fly and .so multiplica- 
tion ?s continued. 



Department of Agriculture. 



4 4 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

Tliey ileixisit eggs in all paits of the plant where the growth is young 
and tender: upon the leaf and leaf stems, the stem of the plant, the huds 
and even on the suhterrancan slufots or root stalks, provided, of course, 
these are exjiosed to the aij'. Their molestations are conhned to tlie 
('hiysanthennnn fannly, including the section which Florists are most in- 
terested in, as well as the garden kinds. In aggravated cases they heconie 
very numerous, stems and foliage are literally covered with tliese little 
galls, which intercepts the natural development. They hecome stnnted 
and distorted and if allowed to go luichecked they will i)roduce few if any 
cuttings for proiiagation. 

AVhile hand ]iicking the atfected leaves and stems and hurning the 
lefi'ise will he iielpful in cases whei'e there arc so few as to give slight 
<-oncern, it <annot ite considered a complete remedy. The surest and best 
method islo funngate either with some form of nicotine (tobacco) or 
Ilydro-cyanic a<'id gas, thus destroying the fly l>cf(>i-e it has deposited 
eggs. 

Either these agencies, used the same as reconnnended fur Aphis, on 
page 42, will be effective 

From the most ennnent entomologists we learn the life cycle of this 
insect: as near as can lie determined is from Jn to .'!(> days. — that is from 
the time the egg is laid until the adult is developed and ready to repeat 
the operation. 

Here we wish to im])ress upon the reader that while thirty days may 
cover the life cycle, this period is not of sutRcient duration to give assur- 
ance of clean stock even though continuous fumigations have been main 
tained. Our exiierience teaches us that where the stock plants are kept 
;\t a temperature below ."0 degi'ees the develojiment is very much retarded, 
and where freezing i)oint is maintained the state of hibernation, may lie 
continued for several weeks, so that freQuent examinations of th.e plants 
and the cuttings taken therefrom should lie continually i-esorted to. 

If the foregoing is true, the life cycle deiiemls upon conditions during 
th" stage of incubation and should be fully considered bef(n-e there is any 
aliatement in the process of elimination. When w (> considei- that the 
female is capable of laying a lunidred or more '^ggs, it is evidence of the 
importance to keeri a close watch the year around for the slightest mani- 
lestations. fud all employees slK.uld lie instructed to report their presence 
w hen detected. 

Why we wish to emphasize the importance of not discontiiuiing fumi- 
gations to soon, we beg to call attention to the fact that in lOls we were 
convinced our stock was entirely free from this pest, but upon transferring 
the old plants to new (piarters we still found approximately a half dozen 
vvliich showed ;i few galls. This leads us to believe that fumigations 
at least twice a week should be continued throughout the sunnner months. 

At the return of longei' days, more sunlight and higher tenii>erattn'e 
(uider glass, the more rapid the development, lioth in the transformation 
of the larvea and the activities of the females, a similar period exists as 



INSECTS 45 

tlie sun retards tlirctu^'h September and October. iMiriiii,^ these eras nightly 
i'lnnigations, or at least every other night, should be contiiuied to keep 
them under control. 

It has been determined the Hy emerges from the gall after nudnight 
and doubtless fumigations between that time and morning would be most 
■effective. We have Vieen able to keep well under control by fumigation at 
6 ]t. m. every night, using Tobacco paper and Cyanide alternately. In 
using Tobacco paper occasionally the thrips, which are a serious Chrysan- 
themum pest when the.v get a foothold, are easily subdued. 

Kecent investigations have demonstrated that spraying the plants with 
nicotine sulphate 40'/' one part to five hundred parts of water, with the 
tiddition of one ounce to the gallon of Fish-oil Soap, will kill the emerg- 
ing adults and a large percentage of the eggs, but the oi-eration should be 
repeated four or five days. This method may be very useful where a small 
Lumber of plants are grown and possibly be less ex])ensive, but in larger 
•establishments where there is considerable space to be treated, fiuaigatiou 
is undoubtedly the most pi'actical owing to the saving in lai>or and the 
I'robability that infested parts nnght not be reached by the siu'ay. It may 
tilso be very useful in localities wliere Chrysanfhemums are grown out of 
doors. 

To the Chrysanthenmm grower the serious part of this question is the 
improbability of ever being entirel.v free of this intruder. No one is im- 
nmne as long as new stock is purchased and it behooves every one inter- 
ested in this class of plants to do their part in an endeavor to keep them 
under control. We occasionally buy plants that are apparently clean, hut 
on the other hand a greater part are more or less affected. 

We prefer Cyanide to tobacco fumigation, being more powerful and 
lasting ill its effect. There are two forms of Cyanide, the potassium and 
the sodium, both are deadly poison, either in the crystal or liciuid form, 
:..•; well as the gas eniitted when brought in contact with sulphuric acid. 
'1 he highest grades of Cj'anide are the best for this purpose and as lOo 
parts of Sodium Cyanide are as etlicient as 120 parts of Potassium Cyanide, 
we prefer the former. Since the publication of third edition Sodium Cyan- 
ide has been placed upon the market in form of an egg — is known as Cy- 
anegg — and these pieces do not vary far from 1 oz. each. When purchased 
ii: this form it eliminates the necessity of weighing out the amount for 
each jar. 

The quantity used is based upon the cubic contents of the house, which 
is jiractically 1 oz. to each (J,()00 cubic feet. A house 30x100 feet with aver- 
age height of S feet will contain 24.000 cubic feet of space. 

For such a house we use four small stone jai's and jn-efer such as liold 
only S to 10 ounces (dishes used for baking beans, known, as indixidual 
bean dishes, ai'e very serviceable) rather than larger ones, as they are 
easier handled and more convenient. 

Use a stone ,1ar of sufficient capacity to fill the necessary number of 
.i;;rs and figure '^ ounces of acid .solution to the .iar. To prepare this solu- 
tion put 3 parts of water in the jar and add 2 parts of couunercial sulphuric 



46 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL, 

luid tlieu stir well with a wooden paddle — never use any metallic dishes as 
the acid soon destroys them. 

An ordinary tea cup with a handle is very servicealtle in tilling the 
small jars — and, as previously stated, 3 ounces to the jar is sufficient to 
ferment and decompose the Cyanegg. 

When the jars have received sufficient amount of acid solution place 
them on the walks at as nearly equal intervals as possible so that the gas 
will reach all parts of the house. The ventilators and other outside open- 
ings are closed, so all is in readiness. I'lace the re(|uired number of 
Oyanegg in a paste-board or wooden box (cigar box if handy), and, be- 
ginning at the end of the house farthei-est from the door or exit, droj) the 
Cyanegg into the jar passing rapidly to the next and so continue until 
all are accounted for and out of the house locking the door. 

In large houses or ranges where there is a considerable space to be 
gassed it often requires the services of two or even more to drop the 
Cyanegg. The course to be traversed must be considered before hand so 
that each person can reach free air and safety at about the same time and 
thus avoid the gas fmnes. 

Those who have not used the deadly poison should be very careful both 
in handling it and after it has come in contact with the acid. The gas is 
as transparent and colorless as the air, but when inhaled it is death to all 
animal life. Never undertake to investigate its action or re-enter the 
hctuse for three hours after its installation. Also see that the houses are 
liK-ked to itrotect persons who are unaware of the danger. 

Iff (J Spidrrs — The most difficult insect we have to contend with under 
L;]ass is tlie red spider, which is very minute, scarcely discernable by the 
naked eye, but if allowed to go unchecked will become very numerous, form- 
iiig, a tine web about the leaves and buds. It is generally first detected 
on the underside of the leaves where they are not dislodged by spraying. 
Dry, hot air is most congenial to their welfare and after these conditions 
have been brought about by turning on heat, houses have been ruined 
which were apparently clean and gave great promise early in the season. 

The best remedy known is water, which should be applied in the form 
• if a si)ray with as much force as possible to destroy the web ;ind dislodge 
them. It is imj>ortant that it be applied to the under as well as the upiier 
side of the foliage. Thorough and repeated applications are the only 
source of relief. 

Thriijs — These, like the foregoing, are very small, the adults being 
scarcely a l-ir. of an inch in length, of a grayish white and very slender 
or hair like, in fact they look very much like clipiiings of white or gray 
hair. Their presence is first indicated by slightly brown discoloration 
between the nddribs on the under side of leaves and when allowed to go 
unchecked the whole nndersurfaee will have a decided brown cast, event- 
ually extending to all parts of the plant including the buds and blooms. 
Si)raying with considerable force will dislodge them to some extent. 

The best remedy we know of is Tobacco fumigation where the idants 
are grown under glass or wherever the fumes can Ite <onfined and is used 



INSECTS 47 

the same as for Aphis, hut often recjuires several fmnigations to expedite 
ixiid accomplish the purpose. 

When plants grown out-of-doors hecouie infested it will necessitate 
I'Sing either some form of Tobacco extract applied with a spray pumi) 1 
to 2 teaspoonsful to a gallon of water or Hammond's Thrip Juice No. 2, 
iit the rate of 1 part to 40 parts of water used in the same manner. 

Leaf Tyer\ (Phlycaenia ferrugalis). From F\g. 21 it will be seen 
there are three stages or forms of life during its existence. The first is 
the larvae or worm, which is light green and feeds usually upon the under- 
side of the leaves, leaving the epidermis or skin like upper surface. Its 
habit of drawing two large leaves together or rolling tlie edge under by 
Dieans of a fine silky web is whence it derives its counnon name leaf tyer. 
As the worm attains full size, about 14 inch long, it seeks a secluded 
place where it changes to the second stage or chrysolis form and is about 
^s-inch long with a brown covering. In a few days this chrysolis breaks 




YIQ. 2?.. LEAF TVER. SHOWING THE LAin AE, 
CHRYSOLIS AXD MOTH STAGES. 



its covering and in this transformation is provided with wings, then being 
i 1 the third o.r mature moth state. With these wings it is enabled to go 
to other plants or houses and deposit eggs which soon become larvae. 
Such remedies as paris green, arsenate of lead are effective if it were, 
possible to apply to the underside of the leaves, but we find such applica- 
tions are not sufiiciently vigorous in their action to keep them in check. 
Tobacco and cyanide fumes have no effect. 

When stock plants are badly infested we find it adxantageous to re- 
move every green or growing shoot and leaf before replanting then for 
propagating purposes. 

Should such a course fail to eliminate the trouble, dip tlie young 
1 lants before planting into a strong solution of arsenate of lead (the dry 
form is best), say 1 oz. to a gallon of water, and thus poison the larvie. 

Another method is to plant sufficient stock for propagation out of doors 
jind allow it to remain until after heavy fi-osts (October 15th) before lift- 
ing and housing thus assuring clean stock plants provided all infested 
plants are destroyed. 

Mealy Bug — As connnonly known it is a white, mealy, downy looking 
insect. Generall.v it does not infest chrysanthemums to an.v extent, but 
we have seen cases where they were more or less troublesome. If not very 
numerous they may be hand-picked. When tliis is impractical, alcohol 



48 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUlVr MANUAL, 



diluted oiie-lialf and aiiplied witli a lii'usli oi' atomizer will desiroy theiiv 
without injiiriiii; the toliai-v. 

(irasshoppfiii are soiiietiines tr<)u])lesnine. 
devouring the tender leaves and stems, and 
the hest remedy is hand-picking, which shonld 
lie done as early in the morning as convenient, 
when they are more dorile and easily caught. 
Shonld they he very almndant, an apiili<-a- 
tion of Paris <Jreen may l»e given. Care 
should he taken not to apply too freel.v or it 
will hurn the foliage. 

A safe rule is 1 part Paris (ireeu to L'lC 
parts air slacked lime which should he thor- 
oughly mixed. 

Tanii.shfd Plant linn ( I.ygus Pratensis) is 
a great hindrance and often causes total faihn-e to plants grown in the 
open Itorder. See Fig. 24. Tliey are brought into the greenhouse on var- 
ious plants, like carnations and geraniums, and immediately find a fav- 
orable feeding ground upon the chrysantliennnn. This destructive bug 
procures its food by thrusting its proI)os<-is into the tender growtlis, ex- 




lli;. -i TARNISHED 
PLANT UUO. 




FIG. 2.J. UEPUEDATIONS OF THE TARNISHED PLANT Bl'O 
BXANCH SHOWING MASS OF lil.IND GROWTH. 



ti-acting the sap, thus causing the tir>s to flag, which may be considered evi- 
dence of tlieir in-esence. In the young state they are of a yellowisli green 
color and seem to confine their depredations to tlie apex of tiie stem and 
soon destrov the center. 



INSECTS 4 9 

As soon as the lateral growths imsli forward they lake to tliese, and 
thus the operation is repeated until the iilant often hecomes a mass of 
stunted growth. See Fig. 25. 

The adults are yellowish In-own, aI»ont o-lc> of an inch in len^rli, and 
will continue their destructive work upon any part of the plant or flower 
that is soft and ahundant with sap. They pmicture with such violence as 
to distort the growth and ruin promising huds, ami later on deface tlie 
I'etals of expanding tlowers. The pest is known in nearly all parts of the 
I'nited States, heing more or less destructive lo many other plants, such 
as asters, goldenrod and sunflowers, and they are very ]»artial t(t carnation 
blooms. 

Hand-pi<'king is the best remedy we have found, and wlioever attempts 
to catch any of these little intruders must he alert indeed. The adults 
\Aill fly at the first intimation of your presence and the young either hide 
under the leaves or drop to the lower part of the plant. 

Vonjthuca (losspi/i ii^ about the size of a full grown aphis: color, a 
dirty gray, having a woolly appearance. It is more or less troubiesome 
tln'oughout southern states, l»ut is little knowi! in the north, although it 
has been reported in many localities. Its habit is similar to the red 
spider feeding ui^on the under side of the foliage. It is reported as being 
very destructive, and the affected leaves curl and die. When disturbed 
they fly to the ground and immediately i-eturn to the plants by climbing 
up the stems and are soon re-established. The l>est remedy is weak kero- 
sene enndsion, and this should be applied to the under side of the leaves 
to be most effective. 

(jiiil) Worm — The common white grub so jirevalent in meadows is 
often carted into the house with the soil. The first indication of their 
presence is, the plant will begin to wilt and eventually die. They harbor 
in the soil and feed uiion the roots and should be hunted out an<l killed. 

Ci(t Worm — This dark-colored worm, which sometimes attains two 
inches in length, burrows in the ground and at night feeds upon the foli- 
age of the plants, generally going to tlie tender leaves at the toii. Owing 
to their nocturnal liabits they are easier caught at night. 

Ladi/ Bird (Coceinella.) — This little beetle varies in size and color, 
lieing from 14 to % of an inch in length in the adult form and nearly 
lound. ("onnnonly red with black spots, varying in size and number. 

In the larvae state they are Yz inch long, color, bluish-gray, more or 
less marked with yellow and black spots. At a certain stage of develop- 
ment they fasten themselves to the under side of the leaves and in a day 
or so shed their larvae coat and are thus transformed to the winged 
or mature state. In all stages they feed upon the a])his but are more active 
and greedy when young. They are also known in this country as lady 
bug and should never be molested, as their jiersistent hostility to the apliis 
is very beneficial. 

Lacc-Winged Fiji or Goldrnciic (Ci-ysopa Oculata. ) — This ily which in 
the mature state, is a peculiar shade of light green, apiiroa<hing opalescent 
tints, entirely excei^t its golden eyes. It is about one inch in length and its 



50 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



large wings are reticulated with a networlc of rib.s to strengthen the thin 
and transparent tissues. This lace-like reticulatiuu is the source of its 
common name "lace wing." The larvae is one-half inch long and nearly or 
quite black in color. 

In the larvae state it will be seen traversing the young shoots and 
leaves where the aphis are usually most abundant. When within reach 
ji seizes its prey with two horny, jaw-like appendages to hold it secure and 
then thrusts its proboscis, or bill, into the ajihis body extracting the juice 




IK.. ■_'»■.. I.ACE-WI>tlEl) FLY. SHOWING LARVAE AND MATLKE STAGES. 

the same as the mosquito operates, when the lifeless shell is released and 
the larva' proceeds to its next victim. 

Chriisaiithcinioii Fly — This insect closely resembles our honey-bee, al- 
though a trifle larger. When on the wing it makes a similar humming 
sound but can be handled with impunity, as it cannot sting. It makes its 
i'ppearance with the first chrysanthemum flowers and disappears at the 
close of the flowering season. 

It cannot be considered a foe or friend, its sole object being to gather 
bee-bread from the more single flowers. It has been used for the purpose 
of raising seed, being an excellent agent in fertilizing flowers, as it contin- 
ually roams from one flower to another. Seed thus obtained cannot be con- 
sidei-ed very valuable, inasnnich as they never visit flowers that are fully 
doultle and the results thus obtained would be degenerative rather than 
progressi\e. 



('H\["ri:i{ XI. 



Rust is not so prevalent in this country ns in Knghuicl from the fact 
our atmosphere is dryer. It makes itself ai>parent with the approach of 
cool nights and is generally augmeuted hy excessive moisture. 

H. J. Jones, Lewisham, England, descrihes this fungus in the follow- 
ing comiirehensive manner. "It appears the fungus originates in the tis- 
sue of the leaf, and is mostly confined to the under side, although there are 
many instances in which pustules appear on the upper surface of the leaf. 
A pustule, simply described, is a little pimple which hursts, e.vposing a 
dark brown dust, at maturity. This brown dust is none other than lil aer- 
ated spores which drop out of the pustule, and fall on, or conje into con- 
tact with the chrysanthemum foliage, and when this is in a moist con- 
dition it quickly grows and very si)eedidly develops a germ tube which very 
soon finds its way into the tissue of the leaf, and after a time repeats itself. 

"There are many remedies given, such as bordeaux mixture, and aui- 
luonical solution, as well as other prepared compound.s. These, doubtless, 
are more or less effective, but we can hardly expect a permanent cure from 
their use unless we maintain conditions that are unfavorable to the devel- 
opment of new spores." 

A few years ago the carnation rust which grows and reproduces it- 
self in the sanie manner, and as far as we know is identical, caused great 
-Anxiety among carnatioiiists, who feared its prevalence would gain such a 
ifoothold as to be ruinous. Exjicrience has taught them to remove the 
cause or conditions under which it develo])s rapidly. To this end they 
house the plants early, spra.v only on bright mornings and maintain a dry 
and buoyant atmosphere as far as possible. 

If chrysanthenuim growers will take the same precautions there is 
little fear of the disease l)econiing wide-si)read, or doing great damage. 
Over-crowding the plants so that the foliage does dry off quickly, indis- 
criminate spraying, particularly when applied late in the day in the au- 
tumn months, and lack of air should be strongly guarded against. 

In aggravated cases it would be well to try the following remed.v, 
given by W. Wells, Redhill, England, in his new work just issued, "The 
Culture of the Chrysanthemum." 

"8i)ray every cutting or plant once a fortnight — from the day the 
cuttings are inserted or the old plants are cut down with al)OUt a wineglass 
full of parafllne (kerosene) mixed with one gallon of water, using an Abol 
syringe with the spray nozzle. If the solution can be kept thoroughly 
mixed, double the strength may be employed. Then from Jul.v 1st spra.v 
the under part of the foliage with a dressing composed of the following 
ingredients: half-pound each of sulphur, soft soap, soot, and lime. The 
ilot should be boiled for half an hour in one gallon of water: a half pint 



52 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

of parafRne slionkl then be added and the mixture allowed to simmer for a 
luinnte, or so, care being taken to prevent it from boilin.i: over. The dres- 
.-in.i; should be allowed to stand until it gets clear, and may be kept in 
iK.ttles. A (piarter of a pint of the dressing may be used to a gallon of 
water. If. liowever, the fungus is very bad and has olitained a hold on the 
](lant, double strength can be used without injuring the chrysanthemum." 

Lcuf tS/tof — With this fungus ( Septoria ("hrysanthenii E and D) the 
si'ore bearing cavities are imbedded in the leaf tissue, and as they niature 
tlie spores ooze out of these cavities and thus spread the disease. They 
may be killed by applying Bordeaux mixture or some sinnlar fungicide. 
Another fungus disase which often attacks the chrysanthenunn is known 
as Clyndrosi)orium Chrysanthemi. It is a more rapid grower rhan the 
Septoria and the plants affected by it are often so stricken down as to- 
be unable to make any blooms. 

The leaves of the affected plants begin to roll up, the outer edges turn- 
ing under and this condition becomes so apparent that even the inexper- 
ienced grower will know at a glance that something is wrong. Some 
varieties seem to be strong enough to withstand this fungus, hence in 
nearly every case wdiere the writer has known its i)resence it has confined 
ilself to certain varieties and very often those growing adjacent were not 
affected in the least. 

The best remedies are Bordeaux and ammonium nnxtures. 

The foregoing is an abridged article on leaf spot by Prof. Byron T>. 
llalstead aiipearing in American Chrysanthenunn Annual. 

Bonh (tii.r Mi.ii iire. 

Copper sidphate '• I'ounds 

Quicklime -I pounds 

Water 4(i gall(»us 

Dissolve the coiiper sidphate by putting it in a l)atr of coarse cloth 
and hanging tliis in a vessel holding at least four gallons, so that it is 
just covered by the water. T'se an earthen or wooden vessel. Slake the 
lime in an eciual amount of water. Then mix the two and add enough 
water to make 40 gallons. It is then ready for inmiediate use. 

Aniiiioniacdl To/V" /" ('(irhoiHitc. 

Copper carbonate 1 o'/,. 

Ammonia enough to dissolve the coitjier 

Water 9 gallons 

The copper carbonate is best dissolved in large bottles where it will 
keei) indefinitely, and it should lie diluted with water as re(iuire<l. 

Mildew — A common name applied to several forms of microscoi>ie 
fungi. The one aff"ecting the chrysanthemum is white and forms a (^oat 
over the leaves and tender shoots and is caused by a sudden check of some 
isature. 

Sulphur in some form is the accepted remedy, Iieing aii|)lied as dust 
directly to the leaves, or by mixing equal parts of sulphur and air slacked 



DISEASES 53 

lime, adflhig water until the eoiisisteney of paste and painting tlie steam 
pipes. The fornmla given by W. Wells for rust is reeommended for mil- 
dew and doubtless is effective. 

Potassium Sulphide is also highly recommended for mildew and rust, 
applied to the affected parts at the rate of one (Z. to two gallons of water. 

Many of the private gardeners consider a jireparation known as graiie 
dust an excellent preventative for mildew and other fungus disease* 
which is applied with a bellows or some other air blowing device. 



CHM'THR Ml. 
SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS 

Before entering the details of this subject let us consider some of the 
liatural conditions which have more or less influence ui)on our results. 
I^ame nature says the chrysantheuunn shall be single and reproduce itself 
from seed, so in producing these marvelous flowers with almost countless 
petals we are working in direct opposition to her laws. 

In some of our imjiroved varieties we are prevented from making fur- 
ther improvements owing to the pistils or styles being abortive ; and in 
others the staminate florets provide little or no pollen. 

In cross-fertilization the operator's desire is to improve the chief char- 
acteristics, such as color, size, form and fullness. It is beyond all human 
l)()wer to obtain exact results in uniting or mi.xing the colors of petals. 
Pollen of a white flower applied to a red may give red, white, or any inter- 
mediate shailes which would be many varieties of pink. Tlie union of red 
and yellow gives similar results, producing red, yellow and all the inter- 
Uiediate sluwles of brown and tan. We have more assurance when varie- 
ties of the same colors are <-rosseil. Improvements in colors can only be 
attained by bearing in mind the laws of nature in making these unions. 

The chrysantheuunn has a great tendency to revert to its antecedents. 
Hence it is we get m:iny strangers when two of the same color are crossed. 
The variety, Mrs. .7. .1. (Jlessner, yellow, came from Edward Hatch and 
Mrs. J. .Tones, both white or nearly so. This seedling i>artook of the 
jtarentage of Ed. Hatch which was (iloriosum, yellow, and Ada Siiiiulding, 
pink. 

Form, size and t'ulliiess are imiiroved only i)y careful consideration 
of these (iualirtc;itlons in varieties at our disposal. We are more certain 
of advancement in the style of growth, securing those whicli are dwarf 
and sturdy by conlining our operations to such as posse.ss these qiuilities. 

Large and small foliage can be iiroduced by using those having these 
1 eculiarities. 

What governs the potency of the pistillate and staminate parent we 
cainiot deternune. We are dealing witli miinite affair.'^. The stigma may 
sc;ircely lutvc reache«l maturity when the iiollen is applied, or the pollen 
may be [last its prime with tlie stigma at the height of development. These 
varied conditions m.-iy have their influence upon establislung the char- 
acter of the seedling. 

In selecting varieties for this woik the two classes for consideration 
are tliose for exhibition and connnercial use. In the former, size is the 
most imi>ortant factor if the other qualifications are up to the average. 
The commercial grower requires staple colors, and the purer the color the 
better. Wze, form, fullness and style of growth are important and should 
be taken into consideration. 

Seed Plants — Our experience leads us to believe that single stem 
plant.-i in 4-inch pots grown naturally without an abundance of uourish- 
n;eut are best suited for tliis purpose. Th*^y produ'-e less ray florets, hence 



SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS 



55 



pollen is easier to gather. The styles in tlowers thus treated seem to be 
in better condition, or at least more normal and produce seed more freely. 
We have arrived at these deductions by endeavoring to i)rocure seed from 
those grown for exhibitions and in nearly every case our efforts iiave been 
fruitless. 

Plants intended for seed raising should be staged in a dry, light house, 
and excessive moisture at the roots or in atmosphere should be avoided. 

Fcrtiliziiiij — The operation begins when the tlowers are half open by 
cutting the petals off close to the base 
witli a pair of scissors, until the styles 
are exposed. See Fig 27. 

Fig. L*S represents an enlarged ray 
and disc floret. No. 1 is a petal which 
furnishes the color. This is jn-ovided 
with a style or pistil and when in 
condition or fully expanded is in proper 
<ondition to receive the pollen which 
is applied to the upper surface, (B) 
known as the stigma. The disc floret 
(II.) also has a style, but is provided 
with stamens, (Cl which furnish tlie 
pollen. These should be removed from 
the seed plant with the points of scis- 
sors to prevent self-fertilization. 

After the flower head has been trim- 
med select the desired flower for pol- 
len. Push aside the ray florets or 
petals until the disc florets are in 
view, t'ollect the dust-like pollen on 
a camel's hair pencil or toothpick and 
^PPly to the stigmas of the flowers 
previously prepared. This completes 
the operation. 

How fertilization takes place is fully 
described by Prof. Bentley in his Man- 
ual of Botany : 

"When the pollen falls upon the stig fu;. 27. flower trimmed riadt 
ma its intine protrudes through one for fertilization. 

or more pores of the extine in the form of a delicate tube which pene- 
trates through the <ells of the stigma, l»y the viscid se<-retions from which 
it is nourished. These pollen tubes continue to elongate by growth and 
pass down the conducting tissue of the canal of the style, and thus reach 
the ovary where the seed is formed." 

If a toothpick is used never use it for more than one kind of pollen. 
By allowing the camel's hair pencil to stand in an open mouth vial of al- 
cohol a few minutes after using, it may when dry be used xiyton another 
variety without fear of the former operation affecting the present. 




•56 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



I'olleiiiziiig should be done on lirii^ht, sunny days as far as possible. 
In wet weather a dry, warm liouse can he utilized and the work continued 
each day, laovided sutHcient pollen is at hand. On bright days pollen is 




(A) St.vie— (B) Stigma— (C) Stamens— (D) Ovary— (1<:) Seed 

FIG. 28. I. PISTILL.\TE FLORKT. II. STAMIXATE FLORET. 



■generally very abundant, and may l)e collected, stored in vials and labeled 
ready for use. If kept [lerfectly dry this pollen will letain its vitality 
throughout the chrysanthemum season. 

After fertilization give the plants only suffleient water to keei) them 
from wilting. Always keep a record of the work, showing the parents of 
the seedlings. It will afford pleasure to know how a meritorious variety 
vvas produced, and may suggest possibilities along other lines. 

Seeds ripen in five or six weeks. Those fertilized early in the season 
give the greatest number of seeds, doubtless due to more fa^•orable weather 
at that time. Do not anticipate super-alnuidance of seed. The crosses 
which give but few seeds generally produce the best seedlings. Hand pol- 
lenized seeds are of more value than those naturally fertilized. It at least 
seems rational to expect more from seed secured I»y The union of our best 
l:inds than from that ]»roduced by the wind without Intent, or the bee 
whose onl.v object is to secure his daily sustenance. If this be true, our 
results depend upon the degree of intelligence employed in the selection of 
parents, and thoroughness with which every detail is attended. 

{^rrdlinpsi — llie seeds should be sown in light soil as soon as they are 
ripe, using jiots. pans or shallow lioxes. They should lie covered lightly 
and kept in a temjierature of al>out (io degrees, until they have germinated. 
II' kept in too higli a temperature the seedlings are (inite :ii't to damp off, 
Mnd at the tirst indication of such .-i condition move to a more airy place. 
As soon as they have made their second pair of characteristic leaACs, prick 
off into shallow boxes, planting about an inch ai»art. When shov.-ing signs 
of crowding they should be potted separately and repotted as often as 
iieces.sary or |>hnited into the beucli. same as standard varieties. 



SEEDLINGS AND SPORTS 57 

They flower the first year from seed and there is nothing more inter- 
esting than to loolv over a large lot of seedlings and note the diversity of 
<-olor and form. After the planted seedlings are estalilislied we nip out the 
t(.p and allow two breaks to come np and flower, and as far as possible 
select a crown or early bud on one of these, and terminal or late liud upon 
the other: tlms we gain some knowledge the first year as to wbich bud 
produces tbe best flower. Those that are considered desirable may be saved 
and given further trial. 

tSport-s — The word "sport" in connection with chrysantljemums refers 
to varieties wliich originate Iiy bud variations and are termed "sports." 
(.■"ccasionally a variety will sport the first or second year after its origin 
trom seed, but generally it does not take pla<'e until several years have 
elapsed, and then often sinudtaneously in remote localities. This has oc- 
<:-iU"red in this country, the most marked case being that of Mrs. .1. Jones, 
sporting to yellow. As a rule most of the whites sport to yellow, and pinks 
to white, altliough Viviand Morel gave us a sport variety, ('has. Davis, 
which is bronze, and has also sported to white in tlie variety Mrs. Kitson. 
liOuis Boehiner, magneta pink, sported to white and named L'Enfaut des 
deaux [Nloncies. This variety sported iinder French cultivation to yellow 
flnd is known as Leocadie (Jentils. Louis Boelnner, the original variety, 
has given us several other sport varieties, such as Wm. Falconer, light 
pink; Mrs. C. B. Freeman, l)ronzy yellow, and Beauty of Truro, bronzy 
cerise. It is wortliy to note that many varieties liave changed tlieir color 
in this way many times, while others that are now very okl have uever 
•shown any inclination to sport. The yeibiw varieties seem iess inclined 
to sport than other colors, possibly this is due to the fact that yellow 
is the original color of chrysanthemums. 

Philadelphia, a light yellow, gave a sport sevei-al shades darker, and is 
known as Pennsylvania. It need not sxirprise anyone cultivating chrysan- 
themums to notice a plant having flowers of two distinct colors. Sometimes 
the sport flowers will be one-half the original color, and again possibly on 
the same plant another bloom will he the new color entire. 

It has been reported that flowers sometimes sport in form, that is. give 
a flower of entirely different form from that originally possessed, such 
as an incurved flower sporting to a reflexed form. Such cases are at least 
few and far between, in fact we are inclined to disbelieve that such changes 
have really taken place. Cultural conditions often change the form of 
flowers materially, also buds selected, and doubtless some of the cai^es re- 
ported were simply due to these causes. 

To perpetuate the new color of the plant that has sported the method 
generally followed is to cut the leaf on the flo\\'ering wood with a heel 
or portion of stem and place these under a bell glass or closed case to 
induce them to make root after which they send forth new growth. Tliese 
are planted the next season and if any i>ossess the original color they are 
discarded and those of the new color saved. Generally in the course of 
two or three seasons it is safe to consider the new variety established and 
color fixed, as it is termed. 



VHAPThUi XI II. 



PREPARING EXHIBITS 



Some time previous to tlie flowering season suitable boxes shoukl be 
made ready. Also material necessary for packing and staging, such as 
(leats, excelsior, pajier for wrapping and lining cases, labels for plants 
ai d cut blooms, and exbibitors" cards. This will save anxiety at the last 
when so many details require constant attention. 

I'Idnta — All pots should be washed clean before packing and each 
plant securely staked and tied, thoroughly watered, and plainly labeled, 
^^'here specimens and standards are to be exhibited, the intervening spaces 
lietween the blooms should be filled with crumpled tissue paper to prevent 
shifting and rubbing against each other. With a strong cord draw the 
plant together as close as possilde without in.iury. 

If they are to lie transported a short distance and the weatlier is fav- 
oi-a)>l(' tliey may be taken as tbey are. For long shiitments that will be 




KKi. "JD. WRAPPING A KlXJOM. 



six or more hours in transit, i)rovide each plant with a frame work, around 
which paper can be wraitped to keep the blooms clean. Sliould there be 
danger of freezing, cotton wadding or several thicknesses of paper will be 
necessary. 

Single stemmed plants are usually shipped in boxes the heigbt of the 
IM-Is, with a post in each corner (extending a little above the plant) to 
which strips are nailed horizontally to form a rigid framework. The 
sjiaces between the pots are tucked with excelsior and the tlowers wrapped 
\.ith jiaper or other tissue. The frame is tlien covered with i)aper or other 
material as necessity demands. 



PREPARING EXHIBITS 



59 



Cut Flon-crs — Blooms that are likely to be too far advanced for the 
exhibition should be cut and stored in water in a cool cellar with some 
light (in total darkness the foliage soon turns yellow), cutting off a 
small portion of the stem and giving fresh water every three days. In 
this way they may be kept two or three weeks in a very presentable con- 
dition. 

All blooms should be cut and stored in water at least 12 hours before 
packing and longer if possible. This allows them to take up suffeient water 
to harden the foliage and petals. In brighter weather it is best to do the 
cutting early in the day while they are firm. 

The most suitable sized box for packing depends upon the size of the 
blooms, number to be packed, and required length of stems when staged. 
They must be of sufficient depth so that the cover when nailed does not 
crush the blooms. When large exhibits are to be handled, boxes 6 feet 
long, 2 feet wide, and 10 to 12 inches deep or there-abouts are the most 
serviceable. 

The box is first lined with paper to exclude air, and if cold, enough 
to protect from frost. The next step is to considt the schedule, sorting 
out each entry so they may be packed by themselves. If no one accom- 
panies them to attend the staging, each class should be divided with a 
!=heet of paper and plainly marked, giving class number so that the person 
in charge will know each entry at a 
glance. 

Each bloom should be labeled with a 
white card plainly written. A very suit- 
able size for this purpose is 1% by 4 
inches, which should be tied to the stem 
near the bloom. A few extra blooms 
should be added in case some are injur- 
ed in transit and the packer will have to 
use his judgment as to how many are 
required, by their present condtion and 
apparent substance. Where the entries 
require a large number of blooms it is 
advisable to label them, even though they 
are to be accompanied with someone 
who is conversant with unpacking and 
staging, as it saves much time and con- 
fusion at the last moment when it is? 
urgent that all exhibits be in position 
at the allotted hour. 

Make rolls of excelsior wrapped with 
paper 2i'2 or 3 inches in diameter, and as long as the box is wide. Sheets 
of tissue paper large enough to cover the blooms shoiild be cut on one 
side to the center, and having the blooms near at hand, all is ready. It 
requires two persons to pack to advantage, one placing the blooms in the 
lio.x, and attending to cleating, and a helper tying on the lal)els and hold- 




FlCi. .30. DI.OOM WKAI'PED. 



60 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 



ing- the blooms while being wrappeil. Beginning at one end of tiie box 
place a roll of excelsior <> or s indies from the end. Tiie helper takes a 
bloom and holding it head down the packer slides the cut tissue paper 
around the stem, draws the edges downward giving the corners a few 
turns with the thumb and finger to keep in position. See Figs. 27 and 2S. 

It is diihcult to say how tight the blooms should be wrapped, much de- 
1 lends upon their form and condition. Those of the retlexed type, like 
Viviand :Morel and Yanariva, may be rolled moderately close without 
injury, while such varieties as Mrs. H. Robinson and Col. D. Appleton, 
should lie given a little more freedom. After a little exiierience the 
packer will detcrnnne at a glance how tight. 

It is then placed in the box allowing the neck of the flower to rest 
on the roll of excelsior, the oli.iect being to prevent outer petals l)eing 




FIG. ol. r.LOOMS PK'OIT.IU.Y ]'\CKEt>. 



bruised. It is wise to select the largest blooms and those liaving the 
longest stems for the end of the box. This operation is repeated until 
the first row across the box is completed and the packing is continued in 
the same manner until the third row is finished. See Fig. 29. 

One or more wet newspapers should l)e laid o^•er the foliage. Over 
these a wooden cleat is placed, pressing the stems down firm and nailing 
secnrely from the outside of the box into the end of the cleat, so they 
can not shift. The cleats should l)e placed far enough from the blooms 
,so the next tier will not rest upon them and thus be iu.lured. The pack- 
ing is continued until the blooms cover about one-third of th.e box, then 
begin at the other end and proceed in the s.im - manner. 

In warm weather it is advisable to well moisten the foliage, the aim 
being to keep the foliage wet and the blooms dry. Some prefer not to 



PREPARING EXHIBITS 61 

wrap the blooms, but instead place on a sheet of tissue, I)ringing the ends 
up so as to act as a partition between the adjoining l)loonis, also the 
sides. This system of packing is along the same lines as tliat usually 
employed by tlie wholesale dealers in paclving Roses and Carnations. 

Foreign Shipmciits — Flowers grown in this country have been ex- 
hibited in England and vice versa. The directions given tor iiacking are 
I radical in such cases, Init would suggest the stems benig cut not to ex- 
ceed 12 inches in length, and use Kift's Rubber Capped Flower Tube for 
each specimen. These tubes are glass vials with a tight fitting rublier 
cap which c-onfines the water to the tube and thus the supjtly is sulhcient 
to keep them fresh. 

Another method is sometimes employed in which the flowers are 
packed so they stand upright, a very good system where the exhibit is not 
\ery large, or the distance to Vie shipped very long. The size commonly 
used is 3 by 4 feet and 2 ft. G inches in depth, but should the schedules 
require longer stems a deeper Iiox will be necessary. These boxes are pro- 
vided with cleats, one a few inches from the bottom and tlie other placed 
so as to come directly under the bloom. In packing put two cleats in 
position at one end of the box and after the blooms have been wrapped 
set them in position and tie securely, top and liottom. 

As soon as one row is completed another set of cleats are adjusted 
{uid the work continued. The ends of the stems may be wrapped with 
sphagnum moss or inserted in rubber capped tubes filled with water to 
keep the foliage from wilting. Packed in this uianner the foliage dries 
out more than when laid fiat in the box owing to the large amount of air 
space, hence the necessity of providing moisture at the end of the stem to 
pi-event flagging. These boxes are generally constructed with a hinge 
cover, also one side or end hinged from the middle so that the upper por- 
tion may be let down, making it more convenient in packing and unpack- 
iug. 

Dressing Floirers — This is resorted to somewhat l)y foreign exhibi- 
tors, but little practiced in this country. In fact most schedules prohibit 
dressing. The Incurved section requires more attention than the Japanese 
when this operation is resorted to. The method is simply to remove 
short or deformed petals and arrange perfect ones to occupy their places, 
also to separate those which have grown one into the other to form a 
regular rounded flower when finished. Sometimes semi-incurved Japanese 
are dressed to give them a reflexed appearance. As far as known about 
the only dressing done in this country is the removal of deformed petals, 
w hich are likely to occur in any of the types. Very often strap-petals will 
appear in the cushion of the Anemone varieties and thus detract from 
their appearance, and should be removed v.ith a pair of tweezers. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



f^tdfiing Phnifs — In arranging plants for exhibition much depends 
lipon the schedule, which should be thoroughly digested to conform with 
tlie rules and reguhitions. Then consider space allotted, and if next the 
wall to be viewed from one side only, the tallest plants should be put in 
the background and others graduated to the shortest in front. 

If the exhibit contains more than one color this should be considered 
and arranged for best effect. Groups for the center of the hall are ar- 
ranged on the same plan, Imt such exhibits are viewed from all sides and 
v.ill require greater effort to bring out uniformity. 

In France the space allotted to plants is covered with light soil, into 
\Ahich the pots are plunged and the earth covered with green sod. In this 
way they have the appearance of being permanently planted, which adds 
greatly to the attractiveness of the exhibit. 

>'t(i(/iii(i Bloovis—CoUeotions of cut lilooms are generally shown one 
ill a vase, arranged on ta1)les usually at the side of the hall, so tliere is 
but one congregational side. Sucli tables will accommodate three rows 
in widtli and after the vases or glasses are so placed the blooms are ar- 
I'anged so the middle row will be slightly elevated above the first and the 
lack row above the second. The oV>.iect is to have each bloom show dis- 
tinctly both its size and form. Tlie largest ones should be placed in the 
back row and the smallest in front. When placed in this maimer they 
appear to be nearly all of a size. The light and dark colors should be al- 
ternated as much as possible for the best effect. 

If there are restrictions as to length of stems this must be considered 
nt the beginning, but if left to the discretion of the exhibitor ten or twelve 
jiiihes for the lirst row will lie alioiit riglit, and three to six indies longer 
for each of the succfssivc rows, according to the depth of the Idowi.ii. 

The foregoing rule is practir-nl where the tables are of regulation 
Iieight, about 2 ft. 7 in., but if only a foot or so from the floor it will hard- 
ly be necessary to make any distinction as to length of stem, inasmuch as 
the exhibit will be viewed from above. When the tables are built terrace- 
fashion the stems may lie nearly or quite the same length. 

Boards — The board system so popular in England for staging col- 
lections is seldom used or little known to .Vmerican exhibitors. It con- 
sists of a board ls.\'_'4 inches nailed to end i)ieces so that the front will be 
three and the back six inches above the table and are painted green. Holes 
are bored to accommodate twelve blooms, three rows front to back. The 
petals of each bloom are supiwrted by a funnel-shaped cup terminating 
with a tube into which tlie stem is inserted and when properly adjusted 
a wedge is crowded between tube and stem to hold securelv. The stem 



STAGING 63 

find cup tube are passed through the hole in tlie board into a tube contain- 
ing water. 

At the Kansas City show of 1902, mossed banks were substituted for 
tlie typical boards. These were constructed by nailing (j-inch boards run- 
ning lengthways of tables to scantling. The boards were placed far 
enough apart to admit the neck of a bottle and the back elevated to give 
a slope of about 3 inches to the foot. Bottles were placed so the top of 
the necks were even with the boards, at the proper distance apart to re- 
ceive the blooms and the whole framework was then covered with green 
moss. This system is veiy practical where large collections ai-e to be 
staged and has been adopted by many of the managements of the leading 
flower shows. This system enables us to display a greater numlier of 
varieties, including those with weak stems, which cannot be staged in 
vases to advantage. 

Vases — Classes calling for more than one bloom of a kind are gen- 
erally staged together and may vary in number up to 100. When three to 
six are required, 18 to 24 inches are considerd sufficient length of stem; 
twenty-five to fifty, 3 to 4 feet, and vases of one hundred will need 5 feet 
or more for those occupying the center. In arranging vases of twenty-five 
or more the aim is to have each bloom show distinctly and the general 
appearance as symmetrical as possible. 

When the schedule states "arranged for effect," colors which harmon- 
ize are considered best, such as white and pink, or yellow, bronze and red. 
Sometimes a few of the Anemone section may be used to advantage in 
such classes, giving di\ersity in form. 



VHAPTEh' A'l' 



EXHTRITTONS 



'I'lir Mini(i!f<iii( ,if — Tln' niiiiual exhibition l•^^(luir^'s mt'iital and jihysi- 
1 nl as well as tinaiicial support and is icenevally nioie successful wlieu back- 
ed by a sti-onu: ortranization. ^'ery few exliibitions are certain of beins 
■ successful year after year, particularly from a finan.cial standpoint. Un- 
favorable weatbei- is likely to impair the attendan.ce and some oiher local 
attraction may divert the puldic. 

Sucli or;,'ani/,ati(ins siKiubl ajiiioin*- committees to liandle certain parts 
of the work, sucli as arransins and mailing a schedule, music, advertisiuir, 
and as the date of the show draws near suiiplement connnlttees for decorat- 
ing the hall. etc. '["lie iireliminary, or. if possilile, complete schedule, giv- 
ing the principal classes, should lie mailed in .Tamiary. 

Make them definite. For example: Best twenty-four Idooms white, 
three varieties, stems not less tjian :>'> inches, shown in one vase. I'.est 
twenty-five iilants, live vai-ieties, grown to single stem and liloom in five- 
inch iiots, not exceeding .'-.i* inches aI»ove pots. When so arranged the man- 
ager is nof hampered with questions. The exhibitor knows .i^ist what is 
required, and the judge has l)ut one thing to consider, — quality. 

The larger the i>remium the stronger the comiietition. Big prizes and 
iionor of wiiming s;,ime are incentives which are far-reaching and should 
be duly considered foi- sake of dis]ilay. This course is a greater necessity 
ii- localities i-emote from the center of clirysantlienuim cultivation, whiilv 
is probably between ("leveland ami IMttshnrg. 

If a final or complete premium list is issued it should appear a few- 
weeks before the date of the show and may be arranged to serve the pur- 
pose of a program and thus curtail expense. Tlie ailvertising is an important 
feature and the jiress should lie furnished with shoi-t items of interest 
to the public that will also refer directly to tlie exhibition. If possible 
they should be supplied with i^hotographs of intended exhibits and descriiv 
tion of same. A month prior to the date posters and other forms of ad- 
vertising will be necessary. 

It is of great iuiportance to have a comiietent secretary, as much de- 
] ends uiion accurate records of entries, iiremiums, etc. W. N. Rudd, yit. 
(Greenwood. 111., in his able ai'tide. "'I'he Management of the Exhibition." 
read before llie .\mericiin ("arnation Society, suggests the following for 
the accounting deiuirtment: •"The writer pi'efers the De La ^lare system 
of exhibition accounting, as being simple, speedy and accurate. It consists 
(■f an exhibitor's Itook. a class book, a judge's book, enli'y cards and en- 
velopes for them, a set of gunnued labels of different coloi's, 'first premium,' 
'second prennum,' etc, to be attached to entry cards by the judges as they 
comjilete each class." 



EXHIBITIONS 65 

The person best suited to act as superintendent or manager slionld be 
selected and have full charge of all materials pertaining to the exhibition 
irom the first day until the hall is vacated. From the schedule and entries 
received he will know about how nnich space will be necessary for the 
various classes, and if wise will study the hall carefully, mapping out 
where each class and group shall be staged. It will also be his duty, un- 
less left to a committee, to provide suitable tables and vases and other 
requisites necessary. The vases should be of suitable size to accommo- 
date the various classes, but should be uniform in each specific class, so 
one exhibitor has no advantage over another. "These should be lilled and 
if possible placed rea<ly for xise, on or before the opening day to avoid '-on- 
fusion and delay. 

Provide new features each year, as the public are constantly looldng 
for something novel. 

Pre-arrangement is an important factor to well conducted exhibitions. 
Details that can be arranged prior to the opening will save the manager 
much anxiety at the last moment, and \Ahatever facilitates his work will 
assist the exhibitor and the task of judging will be less laborious. 

The Judge — In selecting a judge it should be a person having suffi- 
cient experience to be fully competent, and w'hose honor and integrity 
are above reproach. One to three judges are the number generally used, 
sometimes in large exhibitions where there are many classes to consider, a 
greater nmnber are pressed into service and divided into sets, each set 
being allotted certain clas.ses. When so arranged the awards are made 
with the least possible delay. 

The Chrysanthemum Society of America has adopted scales for judg- 
ing which define the important qualifications to be considered in the var- 
ious classes. They are as follows : 

Scale of points for bush plants and standards. 

Equality of size and form of plant 40 

Excellence of bloom o.l 

Foliage ^2T^ 

Total inO 

Scale oi points for plants grown to single stem and one bloom. A 
height of not over three feet is reconnnended for plants in this class, and 
pots not over six inches in diameter. 

Ex'-ellence of bloou) 40 

Compact, sturdy growth 3."» 

Foliage -- — ■2r, 

Total 100 



C6 SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL 

CUT BLOOMS 
FOK (OMMERCIAL I'lIU'OSES. 

. Color 20 

Form lo 

Fulness 15 

Stem - 15 

Foliage 15 

Substance 15 

Size 10 

Total 100 

FOR KXHIBITION PURPOSES. 

Color __: 15 

Stem 5 

Foliasre 5 

Fullness 15 

Form 15 

Depth 15 

Size _^--- 30 

Total ion 

SIXGLE VAIilETIES. 

Color 4i» 

Form 2(1 

Substance 2(' 

Stem and Foliage -- 2i> 

Total Km 

Single varieties to he divided in two classes — the large Mowered and 
the small flowered. 

POMPONS. 

Color -to 

Form 20 

Stem and Foliage 20 

Fullness •• 2o 

Total 100 

There are many qnaliM<-atioiis to be considered and it is not difficult 
to determine which exhibit is most nieritorions. The color should be clear 
and i)ositive, whatever it may lie. Tbei-e is no form which, could be eon- 
shlered perfect for all the v.-iryiim types. iLacli jiossess specimens which 
are ideal as far as their particular class is concerned. lilooms having 
the greate.st depth would li;ive preference to those that are shallow, not 
only in quality of form, but size. Size is easily determiiied and can ha 
decided upon without uivat effort. 



EXHIBITIONS 67 

Fullness refers to the number of petals, hence those showing a dis(- 
or eye would be considered deticient in this respect. 

Substance deals with the texture of the petals and those which are 
soft and flabby should be secondary to those possessing a firni texture. 

The stems should be straight, of good length and stiff enough to prop- 
erly support the bloom. The foliage should be luxuriant, of good color and 
well up to the bloom. It is uot always necessary to use scales in judging, 
as often the contrast of competitive exhibits are so pronounced that 
awards can be made with but little consideration. Where competition is 
close it is well to keep the important factors in mind, and if necessary 
use them. 

The Exhihiior — A practical exhibitor knows the importance of thor- 
oughly understanding the rules and regulations as well as the scliedule of 
the exhibition in which he is to compete, and generally masters these 
prior to the date. In classes which specify certain colors such as white, 
pink, yellow, etc., it is advisable to select a variety that is mOst perfect in 
this respect, avoiding those that are shaded or marked with other colors. 
Never be confident of success before your blooms are staged or at least 
until you have seen those of ,\ our competitors. 

Rememl)er that judging to a certain degree is based upon individual 
preference, and judges, like others, do not all see the same. The decision 
may be at a variance with your opinion, but whether right or wrong, 
do not abuse the judge, or criticise his actions too severely. If you are 
satisfied there is something radically wrong and your exhibit has not 
been given just consideration, enter a protest. This should be made in 
writing, setting forth the grounds of your grievance. Sign and hand to 
the secretary to lay the matter before the judge. 

Abide by the rules and regulations and never resort to trickery of 
any kind to gain a point. Such a course cannot succeed long at be.st, 
and it would be humiliating to have an exhibit disqualified by such a 
procedure. 




CHAPTER XT I. 



CLASSIFK ATION 



As very fpw schedules iiiclnde classes 
for specific types, knowledge pertaining tO' 
classification lias not been I'nlly promulgated 
and accepted as an inii>ortant adjunct to 
Cbrysantlienunu culture. And turllK-r, the 
hybridist has so crossed and re-crossed some 
of the sections, that the identity is often 
rather obscure. 

Chrysanthemums ]>ossessing certain char- 
acteristics of form and petalage are grouped 
into classes, according to these iieculiarities. 



FIG. o2. l.N CURVED 



The following arc abrhlged descriptions of various types as adopted 
by the National Chrysanthennuu Society of 
England : 

luvurvcd — The distinguishing characteris- 
tics are the globidar form and regular out- 
line of bloom. They should be as near a 
glolie as possii>lf, the florets broad, smooth, 
rounded at the tiiis, and regulai'ly arranged. 
A hollow center or e,\e, or uneveiuiess of 
outline is a serious defect. See I'ig. :'>-. 

■Japanciit — No definition can be given to 
Include all the remarkable variations of 
for)n found in the .Tapanese chrysanlhemunis. 
FIG. oo. Japanese. '^\^^, majority of the leading varieties are 
so distinctly marked, Ihat nearly eve!-y one would require a special defini- 
tion. Without regarding the color'^. the foi-m of the florets and blooms 
furnish ample means of identification. The florets are either flat, fluted, 
quilled or tubulated, and of var\ ing IcMigtii. from short, straight, spread- 
ing florets, to long, drooinng. twisted, or ii-regnlarly incurved ones. See 
Fig. 33. 

■1ainin<s<: hirnncd — No definition can be given to include all the re- 
markable varieties fomid in this t.\iie. The florets are either flat, fluted, 
Muilled or tubulated and of varying length, from short, straight, and 
sjireatling, to long, drciojiing, Iwisted, or ii'regularly incurved. See Fig. 34. 




CLASSIFICATION 



69' 



Hairy — The chief pefuliarity consists of a covering of short irhindular 
hairs on the reverse of the tiorets. Tliis liair-like svowth is showw to best 





^^^^^^mf!' ' 


"''^ 




?J 


IH^IHIv'^ 


' ^H 


B^^' 


f ^M 


agu^. 


M^ 




■l^ 



FHi. ;:»;. 



KEI LKXEI). 



FIG. 34. JAPANESE INCVRVED. fIG. ...(. ITAIKY. 

advantage wliere the tiorets are incurved. See Fig. •>!. 

Rcpc.rcd — The flowers should he perfectly 
circular in outline, without a trace of thin- 
ness in the center, heniispheroidal and witli 
broad, overlapping florets. See Fig. ;'.<i. 

Larue Aiicinoncs — The characteristics are 
large size, high, neatly formed centers and 
regularly arranged florets, one quilled and 
foi-ming the center or disc, the other flat 
and horizontally arranged, forming tlie \n)v- 
der oi- ray. See Fig. 37. 

■laiKtncsr Ancmo'itcs ■ — These are remark- 
able for their large size and fantastic form. 
The disc is more or less regular in outline,, 
while tl'.e I'ay florets vary in length, breadth 
and arrangement. They may be narrow and twisted, broad and ciu'led, 
or droop, forming a fringe in some instances. 
Pompous — Small blooms, dwarf growtli 
the true Pompons. The iilooms are some- 
what flat or nearly globular, averaging lij 
inches in diameter: neat, compact with short, 
flat, fluted florets. See Fig. :IS. 

Pompon AncDioixs — These, in style of 
growth and size, are similar to tlie Pompons. 
The.v are really small flowered Anemones, 
having a center or disc of quilled and more 
or less regularly arranged ray florets. See 
Fig. 30. 

Sinf/lc — The.se may lie any size and lorm, 
but should not have more than ;•, doul'le 
row of ray florets and arranged sufliciently i lo. ;;T. large anemone. 



and small leaves distinguish' 




70 



SMITH'S CHRYSANTHEMUM MANUAL, 




close together to form a dense fringe. Tliis section is divided into two 
classes known as the large and small flowering. See Fig. 40. 

The National Chrysanthemum Society of England in their last oflicial 
catalogue have added the following sections : 

L'ailii Floircrhni Varieties — (A) Large flowering Japanese, (B) Pom- 
pons. 

spider)/. J'liniied. Feutherij and l^initd-stic. 

Marlet and lUcaratirv in tliree sections, viz.: Early, midseason and 
late. 
The tloral connnitfce ni" flic National Society of 
England have revised the foregoing classifications, Imt 
as these have not as yet heen approved of, liy the 
Chrysanthemnm Society of America, those gi\en 
above will meet the requirements of persons inter- 
ested in this subject. 

lileiififiiiiKj — Each year flowers are sent to experts 
for identification. l>nt very few miderstand how ditti- 
cnlt it is to identify them when reeei\ed in poor 
■condition. I'ossibly the recipient has been looking at 
perfect flowers and the specimens received are en- 
tirely different as to size, color and other tpialifica- 
tions. Foliage is often the siu'est means of identifica- 
tion and in submitting samples do not fail to send a 
few leaves with each specimen. in., ^i'^. i'ii\.ri'>. 

If shipped by express see instructions for packing flowers, i)age . 

If sent by mail wrap each bloom with tissue paper and line the box with 
wax paper to prevent evaporation, and see that the box is of sulficieiit 
.strength not to be crushed. 

Each bloom should be numbei-ed and a record kept so they can be 
reported ui)on in like maimer. 

The conditions under which ("hrysanthenunus are grown are so varietl 
and the blooms themselves so distin<t that this task is very dillicnlt and 
often fruitless. 

Selection — AVheii viewing the exhibition talilc. notes are maile ot the 
best varieties to l)e grown the following se:is(»n. In making these selec- 
tions it is wise to consider which are niost suitaitle for the desired pur- 
jiose. Tile two cbief classes are coumienial and exhi- 
bition — the former should ))e subdivided as follows: 
First, where the product is jiacked and transported to 
the market and often repacked and reshiiiped before 
they I'each the consumer: secoml, those produced for 
loeal consumption. 

In the first instance those possessing pleasing colors, 
■^ucli as white, pink and yellow: good substance, in- 
< urved form and long, strtiug stems with clean foliage, 
are the most desirable. 
ri(.. :'.'.!. I'oMi'ON am:mom;. 




CLASSIFICATION 



7! 




FIG. 40. SINGLE. 



Those growing for retail trade can include 
many otliers for sake of variety. Some of 
tlie artistic formed sorts, like lora, a few 
Anemones, and Pompons, will add m.ate'lally 
to any form of arrangement from an 
artistic point of view. 

The exhibition varieties may also he di- 
vided as follows: First, those for collec- 
tions which aie staged singly, and second, 
those for vases of twelve or more to he 
staged collectively. 

Size is of most impoi'tance for collections 
and as the stems usually do not exceed 1(» 
inches in length, are not so important pro- 
vided they are strong enough to hold tlir 
flowers in an upright position. 

For vases, size and colors, superlative in 
their respective classes are the most im- 
portant factors. Strong, sturily stems, well clothed with foliage are most 
effective and should be taken into consideration. 

.\lany varieties suitable for the connnercial grower are equally service- 
able for exhibition. Each grower must consider his needs. If the demand 
is for medium rather than large blooms, it is best to inspect the varieties 
grown on a commercial place, or rely on the judgment of those who give 
this matter their constant attention. 

Connnercially the foreign varieties have met with little favor, as will 
be seen by referring to any list reconnnended for this puritose. 

They generally require greater attention to produce marketable tlowei's, 
than those of American origin. In this country the great demand has been 
for good commercial sorts and the hybridizer has selected with this in 
^iew, while foreign seedlings possessing superior exhibition (lualities are 
most popular. 

Do not discard those which do well under your method until experi- 
ence has thoroughly demonstrated the merits of the newomers. 

Novelties should be tested from year to year, retaining those which 
show advancement, bearing in mind the Anieriean \arieties ai-e I»esf for 
commercial growers and the importations should be carefully considered 
for exhibition. 



\ CONTENTS 

rase 

'Chapt<:-r I— History 1 

Ciiapter II — Stock Plants 3 

Ka ) iy Prf»pasatii:iii 3 

C lid Frames 3 

Field Grown 3 

Imported Stock 4 

Novelties and Scarce Sorts 4 

(^hapter III — Propagation 5 

Cutting- Bench ^ 

Selection of Cuttings 5 

Making Cuttings 5 

Air and Temperature 

Shading ^ 

Watering ^ 

Saucer System 7 

Knglish Method 7 

) li \' i s i o n s '' 

J'ottini: - '' 

Chapter IV — Sp'-cimen Plants 8 

Soil 8 

lii-potting 8 

Sti'Ppinu ' 

Diainage »' 

linal Potting '• 



Wat 



10 



Svak 



10 

1 )isbudding H 

F>'din- 11 

Chaptei- A" — Miscellaneous IMants H 

Standards 14 

Jlarket Plants H 

Single Stemmed 15 

Miniature I'' 

Foi- Cut Flowers 15 

O-afting 16 

In Open Border 16 

Ha'dy Chiysanthemums 1 ' 

ChHpter VI— Packing Plants 1? 

For Express If 

For Mail ^'' 

1^'or Export ^^ 

Cliapter VII — Commeiiial Flowers -0 

S. i- 21 

Tving ;; 

, Spraying 



23 



Pase 

^\ i rin.^ 23 

Shading' 23 

Scalding- 23 

Feeding 23 

Chemical Fertiliz»>is 24 

I-iquid Maniiic 25 

I^ime 2G 

1 ion 26 

F.iuning' and Damping; 26 

Top-Dressing' 2(5 

liemoving' Stools 27 

Buds 27 

Farly Varieties 2S 

I^ate Varieties 29 

Height of Plants 29 

When to Cut 29 

Chapter VIII — Exhibition Blooms 30 

Bench System 31 

Soil 31 

Planting 31 

Firming' 31 

Tying cil 

ISnds and Disbudding 31 

Taking the Buds 33 

Stopping 35 

Recoid of Operations 35 

Feeding' 35 

Pot System 37 

Chapter IX — Blooms (rrown ( lut-of-Doors 38 

Australian Method 39 

Shelter or Snug Harl)or 41 

Chapter X — Insects -;2 

Aphis 4 2 

Chrysanthemum Midge : 42 

■Red Spiders 41; 

Thrips 46 

Leaf Tyer 47 

Mealy Bug 47 

Grasshoppers 4§ 

Tarnished Plant Bug ^g 

Corythuca Gossypi 41) 

Grub Worin ^r^ 

Cut Worm 4^ 

Lady Bird 4,, 

L.ace-winged Fly 4(, 

Chrysanthemum Fly jd 

Chapter XI — Diseases gj 

Kust '...'.'.'.'...'..'.'. 51 

Leaf Spot 50 

Mildew -0 

Chapter XII — Seedlings and Sports 54 

Seed Plants 54 

Fertilizing' 55 



Page 
Sf-edhngs 56 



Si'oits 



57 



Chapter XIII — Preparing Exhibits 58 

Plants 58 

Cut Flowers 59 

Foreign Shipments 61 

Dressing- Floweis i • ■ 61 

Chapter XIV— Staging 62 

Staging- Plants 62 

Staging Blooms 62 

Boards *J2 

Vases 63 

Chapter XV — Exhibitions C4 

The Management 64 

The Judge 65 

The Exhibitor 67 

Chapter XVI — Classitioatiim 68 

Incurved 68 

Japanese 68 

Japanese 1 neuived 68 

Hairy 69 

Reflexed 69 

i.>arge Anemones 69- 

Japanese Anemones 69 

Pompons 69 

Pompon Anemones 69 

Single 69 

P'entifying "& 

Selection '^O- 



ILLUSTRATIOXS 

, Pag- 

Frontispiece 

Fig-. 1 — Cutting J'lnch Tamp 5 

Fig. 2 — Cuttings 6 

Fig. 3 — Stork (TFown by Flat Systt-ni & 

Fig. 4 — Specinun I'buU 12 

Fig. o — Mark.'t IMants U 

Frg. fl — Box of Plants JTopcrly Packid 18 

F'ig. 7 — Bi'llch ..(■ Ivoi y Tird to Wii-es 21 

Fig. .S — Brncb Showing Plants Ti^-d to Twin.' 

r\s. — Appi-arance of Foliage When < )v>Tfo(i 

pj^_ m — Blind Growth fi-on-i Excessiv.- Xutrim'-nt 

pjo-. 11 — Crowns as They Appear on th'' Plant 32 

Fig. 12 — Clown WIk'U Kcserved 32 

Fig. 13 — Lateral Ri-tained for Batcr P.iul 33 

Fig. 14 — Terminals as They Appear 34 

Fig. 15 — Terniinabs Aftrr Being Disbudd-'d 34 

Pi^-. Kj^Showing the lOffect of Early and Lat(^ Buds Upon the Form and 

Color 35 

JM-- 17 — Bud Properly Expanding 3'> 



Page 

Fig-. IS — Buds Distorted from Excessive Food 36 

Fi^-. 19 — Buds Blasted by the Use of Too Strong Fertilizers 37 

Fig-. 20 — Shelter or Snug- Harbor ' 40 

Fig-. 21 — Chrysanthemums Showing Galls 42 

Fig. 22 — Adult Gall Fly 43 

Fig-. 23 — Leaf Tyer, Showing the Lai-vte, ('hrysalis and Moth Stages... 47 

Fig-. 24'— Tarnished Plant Bug- 48 

Fig-. 25 — Depredations of the Tarnished Plant Bug; Branch Showing- 
Mass of Blind Growth 4g 

Fig. 26 — Lace-winged Fly, Showing Larvse and Mature stages 50 

Fig. 27 — Flower Trimmed Ready for Fertilization 55 

Fig-. 28 — I. Pistillate Floret. II. Staminate Floret 56. 

Fig. 29 — Wrapping a Bloom 58. 

Fig. 30 — Bloom Wrapped 59, 

Fig. 31 — Blooms Properly Packed 60 

Fig-. 32 — Incurved 68 

Fig. 33 — Japanese 68. 

Fig. 34 — Japanese Incurved 69 

p^ig. 35 — Hairy 69 

Fig. 36 — Reflexed 69 

Fig-. 37 — Large Anemone 69' 

Fig-. 38 — Pompon 70; 

Fig. 39 — Pompon Anemone 70- 

Fig. 40— Single 71 



..•..•»•..•..•..•..•..(..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•..•■.•..•..•..•■.•.••■••.••..••••••••••■••■•••••••••••■•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• 



Chrysanthemtims 
For Everyone 

Since 1907 we have devoted our entire time 
and energy • to the development of all types of 
Chrysanthemums and especially those best adapt- 
ed to commercial and exhibition use. 

Our collection of standard varieties is unsur- 
passed in America. As soon as the merits of the 
new sorts are established we discard the weakest 
of the old kinds and thus keep our offerings strict- 
ly up-to-date. 

Elmer D, Smith £# Co, 

Adrian, Mich. 

Catalogue on application. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
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